I don't know how. You have a Mopar OEM style ignition box, right? The coil wiring is actually the same as points. It comes from the key, through the ballast, to the coil +. The neg side of the coil is connected back to the box which switches it off when triggered, to make a spark.
When you have the key in "run", engine stopped, the coil should draw current, and based on your voltage tests, it is. This is good because it means the coil has continuity in the primary, it is getting power from the ballast, and the box is grounded, and is grounding the coil negative. So far, "normal."
The distributor 2 wire connector comes from the magnetic pickup in the dist, which triggers the box to fire the coil.
So to test everything except the distributor
1....Rig a test gap to the coil tower. Use a wire core wire, not a resistive coil wire. This is to eliminate the dist and wires, and give you a good indication of what the ignition and coil is doing.
2...Switch the key to "run."
3...Disconnect the black rubber 2 wire connector coming from the distributor. This is the ;trigger wire. Take the connector end which goes to the engine harness, and NOT the distributor. That connector will have 1 male bare exposed terminal, and an insulated, protected, female terminal. Take the connector and tap the bare terminal on a good ground, such as the side of the dist or the carb. This will trigger the box and the coil. Each time you do this you should get one blue hot spark out of the coil