TorqStorm Supercharger build advice needed

Jerry Miller said
Thanks everyone. So before actually yanking the engine I had him run a warm engine compression test. Now mind you we did a valve job and .030 shave on the head before. Bottom is untouched and power is not great and has oil consumption and wet oily plugs. Hence the full rebuild and supercharger thread. Anyway, the way she sits right now we have 165-175 psi of compression. That seems great! But the engine sucks for power all things considered. Now my son and I had assumed the rebuild would give him more power and then of course the charger, but now he thinks it’s just going to be whatever the charger adds. Is it possible that actual compression while running is way worse than the cranking compression indicates? I’m not setup to do a leak down test at the moment. Blow by seems non existent with pcv valve connected to the carb. If I close this off his open element breather in the back of the valve cover does have smoke while idling. I just don’t want him to be disappointed in what the supercharger is going to add. I know the bottom end needs work due to the oil. I assume the oil control rings are just trashed. (We did Berryman a while ago just to see)

Sometimes a worn but otherwise sound engine will make more power due to lower friction. The oily plugs indicate the oil and/or second compression ring are worn or stuck. If during ring installation, the second compression ring is installed upside down, it will pump oil out like crazy. The second compression ring is as much or more an oil control ring. Loose valve guides or no oil seals could cause oil in the cylinders. Valve guide oil seapage will show up as blue smoke on decceration or after idling at a light and blue smoke as you accelerate and then clear. If it is the rings it will be while driving. It may not be noticable to the driver so someone should follow to watch for a faint blue smoke.
If the rings are the problem to allow the plugs to get oily, the top of the piston crown around the outside will be washed clean.
Again I encourage you to watch David Vizzard Powertec 10 Episode 95. You could get 10.5:1 pistons and use the water injection with 2% water soluable oil. Ignition advance can actually be advanced a couple of degrees. Use a pressure swith that closes at 5 PSI to turn the water injection pump on. An adjustable switch would be good to find the point it starts to knock and turn the water on just prior. This should be referenced to the pressure in the intake manifold. At cruise power the manifold is likely going to be in vacuum so ignition retard or water injection is not required.