Overdriven pulley how much is too much?
All I can tell you is my experience.
As I stated before = I can only speculate on the why
things occur the way they do. But I can concisely explain to you
WHAT DID HAPPEN in my testing.
I am sure you Engineering boys are way smarter than
I ever was on why and wherefores thing occur with your Pretzel
Logic High School Physics Theories. All I can tell you is what DID
and DID NOT work for in the real world of competitive racing for the last 60+ years.
I am just a Sportsman Racer who races and continuously tests things trying
to get a competitive advantage over my adversaries and never claimed to be
an Engineer.
However, I am always pleased and happy to see an Engineering Type in the
opposite lane to race. Kind of like the two engineers that went Duck hunting.
One shot way high and the other way low but of course the Duck hit the ground
as they had killed it with the average of the two shots.
Looks like no one needs my opinions or advise anymore on
this forum and I am full of Hokum.
I probably should send our 50+ National Event Wallys to
you engineers. Plus our Dozen Track championship Trophies.
I am out of this conversation.
Everyone please send their questions to you learned Gentleman. I obviously
do not have a clue and my experience is clearly and fatally flawed inaccurate
hokum.
I have a half dozen champion Stock and Superstock cars to prepare for the double divisional
and class showdown in Bakersfield next months. I spend way too much time trying to help
people on here than I care to admit. But we will fix that right away.
Overdrive those water pumps double speed and cavitate the crap out of them
until the hoses look like balloons and we will see how they cool!!
BTW: I still stand on all the advice and experiences that I have ever related on this Forum
the last 14 years. I would never send anyone on the wrong track deliberately. Nor relate anything
that I did not have experiences with my own two hands and eyes.
I will be at Sonoma Nationals next year and a Divisional if they have one.
Please feel free to come introduce yourself to me and we will interact in person.
Mark Twain said the last Century: Say anything you like about me = Just be sure
to spell my name right.
To Summarize for the final time:
I still stand by my observations that if the water goes thru
the radiator way too fast my car takes way long to cool after the
run down the track especially if you have a stock radiator. Now if it
roared thru the radiator again and again in a loop and never entered the
engine = Perhaps. BUY it does not - It goes straight thru the block look without
near as much cooling which means that it has little ability to cool the engine as it
is NOT much cooler than the engine itself. Less difference in temperature = Less
heat transfered from the engine to the coolant.
Also the Hotter my race car is when I pull in my pits the longer it takes
to cool. The heat may transfer quicker the hotter it. BUT it still take time
to get it down to get to the cooler temp where it transfers slower of course.
But you waste a lot of time to get it from the higher temp to the lower and it
is impossible to recover the wasted time.
Often between passes later in the day in eliminations = The is very little time between rounds
to get your car cooled down and if your car is not consistent you will be putting it on the trailer.
And that is the Facts just the Facts!
Big Fancy Words and Theories not based on real experiences
do not make your car win races or keep
it from overheating at a traffic light. Today it is 110+ in our
town in the shade. but there is NO shade and my Street/Strip cars
(High Compression) cars are cruising right near 160 where the Thermostat
opens are your cars?
I never questioned your experience, I'm sure you saw the results you saw. But that doesn't mean you're right about the problem.
Have you ever actually measured the coolant velocity in your radiator before and after changing the pulley diameter? Have you measured the output GPM of the water pump on your engine before and after changing the pulley diameter? Or even the actual water pump GPM's as installed on your car? Because the manufacture spec isn't what you're actually getting most of the time.
The problem is this- just because you observed a change in your cooling performance doesn't mean the culprit was circulating the water too fast (it wasn't). Just because you changed the ratio on your pulley by 20% doesn't mean the coolant velocity went up 20%. It honestly doesn't mean it changed at all, you could have just reduced the efficiency of your water pump that much by spinning it at a speed it's less efficient at. That's probably not 100% of the difference, there are a TON of variables in a cooling system that are all effected when you change something like that.
You mentioned electric pumps too, which are an entirely different issue. As in, just because you installed a bigger electric pump doesn't mean you increased output. If your electric system can't deliver enough amperage to the pump you may not get any improvement in output at all.
That's the problem with anecdotal evidence. I'm sure you did observe the results you saw. But if you didn't actually measure the flow velocity, and made sure that the flow velocity was the ONLY change, well, you haven't proven anything. You probably changed a handful of variables all at the same time and blamed something you think you understand for the difference. The reality is you had a completely different issue that you didn't understand, and accidentally solved it by throwing different parts at it.
What you did worked, but the reason is not what you think. Circulating water too fast through the radiator
is an old wives tale. It's simply not the issue. Which is not the same as saying you didn't have an issue, or that you didn't fix it. I'm positive you had/did both, but the actual reason is not at all what you said it is.