Hard starts after running

Agent_Orange said

I didn't know what I didn't know. It makes more sense, setting the transfer slot and adjusting the initial to bring the rpm into line. Instead of using the idle screw to account for a timing number.

following the procedure outlined by AJ, I just pulled 5 degrees initial out, from 19 to 14. The engine is more responsive despite the decrease in timing. I will need to add s few degrees of mechanical back in the distributor. Not a big deal.

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If the engine is more responsive, and (if an automatic) the same or less drop in rpm going into D, then it would seem to be the engine like it.
When its warmed up, adjust the idle mix screws. The engine should die as you screw them in, back them out to strongest idle and then a little richer (1/8 or 1/4 turn at most). (The engine doesn't make much power at idle rpms so it needs to be richer in gear than with no load. )

Then as far as timing, maybe nothing wrong with 14* initial. Maybe thats what it likes. Factory pre-emissions timing for 273 4 bbls was around 10-12* at 600 or 650 rpm. B-engines with 4 bbls 12.5 BTC around 600 rpm. Advance should begin between 650 and 750 rpm. Factory advances are pretty quick off-idle to about 1600 rpm.