I think I'm missing a nut.

you can strip the crank threads by trying to fit a balancer (aftermarket that is too tight) to the crank by using the retaining bolt to pull it on.
they probably pressed them on in the factory, can't think they'd risk hard steel bolt into nodular iron thread. the forces necessary are gonna huge

balancer tool like this type uses a static stud wound in short spanner tight to the crank thread with thick wall threaded pipe on its protrudeing end, and you wind a big nut and the huge disk with a bearing in the middle, down that pipe to press the balancer onto the crank snout
ATI 918999: Damper Puller & Installer Pro Kit - JEGS

removal just has the big disc the other side of the NUT so you can PULL the thing off
the bolts in the kit fit the pulley mounting holes in the balancer and are the sacrifical parts if it all goes wrong. i.e they are hardware store bolts

numerouse people make them and you can get them for a lot less. think mine is OTC and was about $100.

avoid the 3 claw pullers at all cost.

getting them on and off is still a fight between man and machine, but its controlled agression, rather than busted jaw and split lip. i.e you can take your place at the dinner table with just a light sweat after removing a balancer, and not rasie any suspicion about what you have been up to in the shed....

really is the only way these days to get balancer off and on with no damage to either crank timing cover or balancer. these engines are old and in some cases rusty, or previously maintained by an idiot.

when i stick an engine under the bench for a rainy day project i tend to put some light oil into the bore via the plug hole
put the plugs back in and i take off the rockers. That way lifters valve springs etc are not compressed and each cylinder is pretty much sealed up, from the damp winter air, in my part of the world

kinda works ok as far as i'm concerned

Dave