Cool Dave’s 1973 Dodge D100 Club Cab

You don't have a timing problem.
All your efforts are only band-aiding the real problem, which is most likely the carb. and AFAI can tell it has multiple problems. Assuming;
the intake valves are sealing and NOT sticking, and
the gas is fresh and clear, then
the carb will have to taken apart and cleaned, then, the timing returned to near stock.

In addition, you will need to;
make sure the PCV system is functioning properly, and
that the EGR system is Not faulty, and
that the only other air entering the engine, is going past the Throttle valves. and
that the crank is NOT seeing an idle load from other systems like the A/C compressor, the P/S system, a faulty convertor, etc.

AFAI can tell your carb, itself has up to three major issues, but ids not limited to just those three; Assuming that ;
A) the gas is fresh and
B) the WET fuel level is both correct and stable, and
C) most importantly that the cylinder pressure is even, stable, and it takes about the same number of compression cycles to peak the gauge; then, the issues may be/ but are not limited to;
1) the accelerator pump is lazy
2) the Transfer slot exposure under the throttles is too small, and
3) the airbleeds or emulsion tubes are restricted.
4) the fuel is contaminated.
I would start with a compression test, on account of you mentioned the vacuum gauge bouncing, which is a clear sign of something going on in the intake which should not be happening and can almost always be traced to an intake valve; simultaneously I would check every valve spring to make sure each has enough seat pressure, to be able to keep the valves closed and sealed. If you can spin an intake with just your fingers, that is NOT enough, lol.

A lot to digest here so I’ll dig in properly when I’m looking at the truck. I did pull the carb and crack it open when I got the truck, it was actually pretty clean inside so I threw in the basic seals and slapped it back together. Fuel pump eccentric seems to be shot so I added a cheap electric pump, new hoses and filters. Fuel supply is good, gas is new, filters are clean. The vacuum bounce was a few inches of vacuum until I blocked off that vacuum advance can, now it’s a tiny fluctuation and the gauge shows strong idle vacuum.

I guess I can figure out running a compression check on it when I have time to eliminate it as a cause. In the mean time I’d like to probably try to get the vacuum advance back to working which means a new canister or maybe just a whole new distributor. When I do that what’s the consensus on ported versus manifold vacuum? Then I’ll also check out the carb a little closer, is there a good guide for those 2-barrels somewhere?

Yep, they kept the cab filler, but went to a tank under the bed in '73.

My truck has the cab filler hooked to the under-bed tank but it also has evidence of what used to be a filler on the side of the bed. Still haven’t figured out why that is..