Chris1974 said

J B I know this doesn't help you, but it may well help another a body guy. I bought a kit from wilwood to do just the front disc brake conversion on my 74 duster and it turned into a nightmare. Like a dumb *** I didn't get the balls to start it for over a year and when I did I found out that wilwoods stuff would not fit on my spindles so I called them and the tech guy said basically if our stuff doesent fit your car your car is the problem and by the way since you have already had it for a year we aint taking it back. I was totally screwed and was considering scrapping the conversion kit and putting my drums back on but this kit is a thousand bucks. I was telling the story to my body man and he says and we confirmed this that 74 was the last year for the solid bumpers and 75 had the 5 mph bumpers and so they were using whatever parts they had because everything was changing and as it turns out this car was considered a late 73 early 74 so I called Mike from AMS Obsolete who I bought my bumpers from and asked him if he knew anything about that they have a huge yard and tons old dealership parts including NOS and he also confirmed they were using 73 parts on 74 model years and he said you have 73 spindles not 74 so fortunately for me he had 73 spindles and took them off a car and sent them to me. The rest of the install went pretty smoothly I have non power brakes and a stock master I did make new lines as required which took some trial and error but like others have said here take a step back and regroup and you will make it happen
If this stuff was easy everyone would be doing it..........

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Dragonsteel said

A few photos for what it's worth in helping you solve your problems. I have the same 4 wheel disc brake kit on my Dart, but did not purchase brake lines from them. I made my own line from the proportioning valve to the rear of the car (I chose not to use their proportioning valve, bought a factory style disc brake p-valve) and have factory style rubber lines on the rear. I either made or bought the tabs welded on the rear axle housing to secure the lines. Engine compartment lines were from in-line tube. I did ditch the master cylinder for an aluminum one from Doctor Diff as I could not get it to stop leaking around the cap. E- brake lines are a pain as they sent equal length lines that were not useable as the line runs down the drivers side, so I had to source the longer line and had to split the mounting tab and on the body and relocate it to get equal line tension. A lot of work and trial and error was needed to get it right, but the cars brakes are just right not over powered and not under powered.

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