Classic auto air install 1970 Duster with 340 and Edebrock Super Victor EFI Manifold
Work has been slow due to needing to winterize everything around here, the holidays, and just generally being cold.
I did get everything connected under the hood for the heatercore and the wiring done. The Heat did work well when I was bleeding the cooling system.
I looked under the dash and decided to order some round vents to use with pods, but they're not really made to just snap together or anything...Guess I will have to glue them.
I did finish the wiring. Due to having the EFI computer, I have some extra abilities to improve the functionality of the A/C and also smartly control the fan running. The car has the contour fans and the dakota digital controller - If you just connect the white or purple wire coming from the classic relay to that controller on the A/C input, it will just run the fan on high at all times when the A/C is on. This is not what I wanted. I decided in this case to change it so the Megasquirt 3 I have can control the low speed and then it's able to turn the fan off above a certain speed (I am going to try 25mph). Because of the way the controller works I had to add an extra relay so the LOW relay gets cut out when the high turns on. Wiring diagram below:
Next, I am making it so the Megasquirt 3 can cut the A/C compressor clutch off at over 70% throttle, it can idle up the engine when the A/C is on, and how it will know to run the fan to help cool the condensor. This can be accomplished by understanding the system diagram. The Classic Auto Air controller has a single wire that is blue that they normally tell you to connect to the thermostatic switch on the A/C box and it has a second pin (these were heat shrunk together) that goes to the relay they provide. So, knowing its a ground switch, you interrupt that wire and pass it to the input on the MS3. Then, on the MS3, you use an output and connect this back to one side of the box. The rest, you hook up as they request. Another note is you'll use about 15' of wire for each wire to connect from the relay to the pressure switch under the hood and from that switch to the compressor.
Note that in both diagrams wires crossing at 90 degrees are not splices, the only splice is pin 86 and 30 together on the second diagram but this was done already by Classic Auto Air.
So from here on out is actually just if/when I make a new control bezel, and then running the hoses and installing the outlets under the dash. Not sure when this will get done with it being winter here now.
Work has been slow due to needing to winterize everything around here, the holidays, and just generally being cold.
I did get everything connected under the hood for the heatercore and the wiring done. The Heat did work well when I was bleeding the cooling system.
I looked under the dash and decided to order some round vents to use with pods, but they're not really made to just snap together or anything...Guess I will have to glue them.
I did finish the wiring. Due to having the EFI computer, I have some extra abilities to improve the functionality of the A/C and also smartly control the fan running. The car has the contour fans and the dakota digital controller - If you just connect the white or purple wire coming from the classic relay to that controller on the A/C input, it will just run the fan on high at all times when the A/C is on. This is not what I wanted. I decided in this case to change it so the Megasquirt 3 I have can control the low speed and then it's able to turn the fan off above a certain speed (I am going to try 25mph). Because of the way the controller works I had to add an extra relay so the LOW relay gets cut out when the high turns on. Wiring diagram below:
Next, I am making it so the Megasquirt 3 can cut the A/C compressor clutch off at over 70% throttle, it can idle up the engine when the A/C is on, and how it will know to run the fan to help cool the condensor. This can be accomplished by understanding the system diagram. The Classic Auto Air controller has a single wire that is blue that they normally tell you to connect to the thermostatic switch on the A/C box and it has a second pin (these were heat shrunk together) that goes to the relay they provide. So, knowing its a ground switch, you interrupt that wire and pass it to the input on the MS3. Then, on the MS3, you use an output and connect this back to one side of the box. The rest, you hook up as they request. Another note is you'll use about 15' of wire for each wire to connect from the relay to the pressure switch under the hood and from that switch to the compressor.
Note that in both diagrams wires crossing at 90 degrees are not splices, the only splice is pin 86 and 30 together on the second diagram but this was done already by Classic Auto Air.
So from here on out is actually just if/when I make a new control bezel, and then running the hoses and installing the outlets under the dash. Not sure when this will get done with it being winter here now.