MP DISTRIBUTOR TIMING CURVE 340
Today, I ran my Mopar Performance distributor (bronze internals). Here's what I found.........
If it looks like this, its a Mallory built version.
Changes don't do what you think they they will do. In particular changing the advance also changes the initial spring tension and degrees out before the secondary spring joins in.
The YT, YH advance is a PIA design to make it do what you want. I was trying for something similar and was moderately succesful using heavier springs and bending loops and/or spring pivots.
It came up a few times in this thread with some pictures of springs and weights (skim through you'll see a little on page 1, then bottom page 2 into 3).
Too much advance at light throttle?
and a discussion about modifying the weights in this thread.
Modifying YH Advance Weights
Which I haven't got around to trying myself yet.
Advancing began at approx 1500rpm. By 1600, I was at 5*, by 1800 at 10*, and at 2000 I was at 14*. I believe the advance is locked out at this point (14* advance) with the plate inside the distributor since going to 2500rpm yielded no further timing increase.
Advance should begin at 1000 rpm or less. Stock, non-smogged 318 should start advancing by 800 rpm.
I will be moving that lock point eventually to accommodate the idle timing (which I expect to be around 14* btdc to maintain a civil idle speed) that I will have with the 340, shooting for 34* all in by 2500.
That's too much timing at 2500 rpm to use with vacuum advance.
2 bbl 318 is a pretty efficient engine. Doesn't need that much advance until high rpm.
I'll promote reading up on
what timing does, a post from this thread:
total timing reading accurate with no load?
Since your timing measurements started with TDC, lets plot them onto a chart with a factory 318 distributor that was meant to be set at TDC. Some others graphed
here.
You want the advance to begin at a lower rpm. Then response off the line should have more pep. For your 318, if you want to learn how the adjustments inter-relate, would be worth changing the advance from 14 to 18 or 20. If I remember this right, increasing advance range this will increase tension on the primary spring and also also allow the long loop spring to engage earlier. If you observe inreasing the advance is putting more tension on the primary spring, then you will have to bend the tab in a little. The mechanism already has too much force on it at rest, and this is holding it back from advancing until 1500 rpm. If it has two short loop springs, exchange one for a long loop spring. Make sure the long loop spring is a little loose at rest.
At 15 inches of vacuum, the can added 17*. This was pulling vacuum with an external source from idle.
Good info. Should also test for what vacuum is needed to begin obtaining vacuum advance.
Still playing around with my "mule" 318 getting Fuel and ignition straightened out before I break in the 340.
That's fine
So.........Does this sound like the type of curve I am looking for? Mild 340, 9.3:1(XE 262), 2500 stall, 3.23 gears, auto transmission.
For the 340 - No.
For that an advance curve more like the Chrysler built MP distributors came with, or that Rick works out here.
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/distributor-curve-help-needed.496183/#post-1973532835
edited since MoparR&D shook my brain