Gen 3 Hemi list input needed

DionR said
The Holley pan is designed for the motor to be forward. No idea on the Milodon pan though.

I mocked mine up with the Holley pan before I had my k-frame welded and gusseted and was going to add a 1/4" or so notch. I just had the motor sitting on the k-frame with the motor mounts and the angle of the motor could have been off, but it wasn't actually touching the k-frame. Close enough that I wanted a little more clearance but not enough that it wouldn't have bolted in.

Cool.. I have the Holley pan and just had it sitting in there, much the same as you did. I slid everything forward as far as I could and it looked tight. But I did have some column interference, casting me off at a slight angle. So I suppose with everything square, it'll probably go more. My biggest concern as for sliding forward any farther will be the headers. That's one of the reasons I opted for the shorties.. hoping they are a little more forgiving. We'll know this weekend!

racerjoe said
IMO, if the wiring scares you, I'd recommend you use the factory harness and ECU. Sublime Technologies can make a factory harness plug and play.

I've read too many stories of people blaming Holley only to later find out the source of their problems was their poor wiring. Not to mention, its easy to get discouraged if you don't completely understand how things work and problems arise. The swap is mechanically a pain in the a$$ alone, don't make it harder on yourself.

This I agree with totally. I know everybody loves the Holley stuff but if you don't really need all of that.. skip it. I don't mind wiring but why add more pain. On my current swap, I ended up with the stock harness and ecu, so I'll be going through Sublime and saving a few bucks on the Quick Run and a flash and save a few bucks. My last swap, I used a Mopar Crate Harness and it was great except I had to reroute the starter wiring to the drivers side and it sure would be nice if you had just a little more length for the ecu.