The magazine started by pondering the cheap way to a 383 SBC, which involved using the 400 rods and either the 400 crank with the mains ground down or a 3.75" stroker crank.
As a baseline they dynoed the 350. Then they changed the crank and rods. Pistons to keep the compression the same, but used the 350 cam.
After dynoing that combination, they got pistons to work with the 5.7 rods. Again the cam was the 350 cam. Dynoed again.
Then they tried one or two cams to compensate for the increased displacement but kind of followed the 350 tune.
This test was intended to show how the different parts function in a budget street build, not race oriented.
That was pretty much before stroker kits with crank, rods, pistons and rings were readily available in choices of strokes and rod length. Now if you turn a bearing, especially a rod bearing, it is just as inexpensive to get a stroker kit with all the reciprocating parts that match. With that you still have to consider heads, valves, the port flows and camshaft. That is determined by the bank account and how serious you are prepared to get.
Now regarding the converter stall; if a fairly stock camshaft is chosen, the requirement for high stall is reduced. Again, how serious do you want to get.
For a good street engine a stroker crank in the mid stroke range, a cam speced for the added displacement, port matching and pocket porting with probably a bit larger intake valves, should provide a snappy street driver. If you want a more race oriented engine and car, throw the bank account at it.