And there’s our resident expert without ever building an engine citing others work.
No one should answer a single question of your Dan.
But I’ll go over some basics.
:poke:Get off the lot or take a ****!
LMAO COULDNT HELP MYSELF
I proving torque on any old engine starts with increased compression and a larger but still small in size cam shaft.
Same as above.
This depends on the level sought.
With cylinder heads and a 318, this combo is rarely researched. The reality of it all is it’s all in the combination. Your not going to see a good increase with racing cylinder heads on a stock 318, but, if you built a racing 318 w/13.5-1 compression and a whooping solid roller, then that W9 or Victor head is ideal.
For the street, a ported 318 head is very good. A 340/360 head might be better if the combo is right. But what is street performance but an opinion and what one is good with behind the driver seat.
This is another combo dependent issue and sometimes it is what the builder likes better. Some guys go fora flat top and a closed chamber head. I like that in the 340/360/400+ combo. Works well on the street as far as I’m concerned.
Others will go right to the domed piston and an open chamber as well as sometimes run the piston above the blocks deck. Like the old 340 with a positive piston at .018. I have that now on my destroked 360 @ 352 cubic inches.
Builder’s choice!
Street? 1-5/8 will cover it most of the time.
Camshaft, compression ratio, gear ratio, stall converter, tire size, car weight, etc…. dependent.
Just because the engine likes, let’s say, 20* initial, 13* mechanical for 33* at wide open throttle doesn’t mean it’ll work great in the car.
Why? You’re great at it! :poke:
Step one, get a car.
Step two, ask a question about the car you own.