Better Torque From A 318

The rotating assembly is a MP 3.45 forged 8 bolt crank with the flat top MP forged pistons set at a positive deck height of .018. The MP con rods were shelved because they were in a OOTB condition. Which means they weight a hair more than the stockers, were in need of finishing to a lighter weight and balanced. While the rod could have been used as is, it was just more work for the machinist and that’s time and money I did t want to spend and to be honest, the machinist said he would rather not do. Even more so since I had some Eagle forged rods ready to go.

This rotating assembly is designed for a small main block, which I don’t have for the kits piston size of 4.03. I used a 360 block and main bearing spacers from Bill Richardson which allows the small main journal crank into the large journal 360.

Total cubic inches are 352.

The cylinder head for use will be varied for some dyno testing and experiments. Same with camshafts. The only thing I’ll let loose at this time is the following cylinder heads available for fun.

Stock 1.88 J, Promaxx CNC, Hughes Big Mouths, W2, W5.
I’ll be working on a set of ported J heads I’ll port myself later & I’m playing with the idea of just simply equipping another set of W5 with gear and running them without porting them.
Just to see what they do.

You’ll have to watch my YouTube channel for future actions, experimentations and engine builds.

No worries, I have only mentioned it in passing.

I also have a 340 that I had the KB domed (replacement) piston installed. My instructions to the machinist were to have the major area of the flat portion of the piston at zero deck which should give a stock height some positive position.

The Promaxx CNC’d heads are on top of that now along with a RPM AG, AFB 750, standard headers, 1.5 roller rockers and a XE285HL that I asked Comp to modify to a 108 LSA.

Both of these positive deck height list ones engines are not what I’m used to working with. Normally I used a zero deck flat top. So this is a learning curve for me on whatever nuances appear.


How much were those bearing spacers and did you have to line hone the block before you installed the spacers? I know you have to do it after you install them.