Better Torque From A 318

The best way to do both,
> is to assist the engine in processing air.
>This begins with a solid foundation, and don't let anyone tell you different, this means a having a decently high cranking compression number.
> it's ALL, I say ALL
about getting as much air into and thru the engine, as is possible, which includes keeping that air dense, on it's way into the chambers.
On a street engine, you have the unfortunate problem of making whatever monster you build, work within the confines of the rest of the combo. And, unfortunately, the engine has to be throttled some 95 or more percent of the time; which brings the difficulty of carburetion into play..

So then,
to optimize for street,
the first decision you have to make is; What fuel will you be using. If best fuel available is just 91, then that is your first handicap.
If that fuel is to rich for your blood, then that is your second handicap.
If then your DD project becomes a weekend warrior, that's a new handicap.
If the chassis will not accept decently sized tires, there's another handicap.
If the vehicle in question weigh over two tons, there's another.
If it is stuck with a low-stall convertor, and hiway gears, those might have to be replaced.
And if you are at altitude, that could kill the 318 altogether.

It's easy to get carried away with designing a hi-powered 318, only to find that your dream car will never run with it until everything behind it is upgraded, and the car still only does one thing right, and it's not what you had expected.
If you don't already have a car, I highly recommend to not start building a 318. If you all of a sudden can't find a relatively lightweight A-body in your budget, and end up with a 4000pound behemoth, then you may need a bigger engine.
Your guide for acceptable performance is 10 cubes per 100 pounds of ready to run chassis, you not in it. So then, at 4000 pounds, you will need a 400 cuber. Whereas the 318 is good at around 3200, and a 360 for 3600 pounds.
Operating outside these guidelines will be either disappointing or expensive.
So I mean, if you find a beautiful 71 Polara in your price range, she's gonna need a 360 or more. and trying to find a lightweight A in rebuildable condition, is as good as impossible but if you do, well then, mortgage the house.

Building the 318 from scratch to meet your goals is doable, if not cheep. Whereas fitting it into a winning combo, make take some ingenuity. It's just way easier with a bigger engine.
And no, I'm not knocking the 318. You can fit it into almost any combo with higher stall than stock convertor, and/or gearing, and the overdrive auto is a fabulous solution.
If you can commit to one of those, then the 318 becomes much more attractive.
If you want to discuss ideas away from the naysayers, you can PM me.

More tq? Tq is cu in related. There is only so much tq you can get out of a 318. Best bang for the buck for more tq that you can feel.....is more cubes.

Double bingo. It’s all about the combo. While Bewy is correct, maximum torque production from the 318 is limited and improvements can only go so far. This leads to the question, how thick is your wallet?

Someone said earlier, the easier it is to maximize breathing in and out is the best way to start the journey. Camshaft selection is next. This is based on the rpm range your driving in and/or use most often. Coupled with the weight of the car, the gear ratio and tire size as well as the over all goal of the car.

don't over cam it, don't over carb it.

get some reasonable compression, decent heads, 1 5/8 dia full length headers (tri-y, etx, non fenderwell), dual plane, 600~750 cfm carb, factory electronic ignition.
“LIKE”
since you're setting the dial to "stun" and not "kill" anything from a "302" to a 360 2bbl head will be fine-- adjust compression as necessary.
Dislike, reason being, and IMO on;
The “302” head is because as cast, there terrible. Ported there very good.
The “360 - 2 barrel heads” are the same as 360 - 4 barrel heads.
Just incase you didn’t know but I think you do, but more so for those that are new to MoPars.
converter and gears are going to make more of a seat of the pants difference than an extra 50 tq or hp.
Also @Dan the man

Heck yea. Though Dan specifically asked about the engine, which I think is the starting point in his head. Your still right. One recent example of this was done in my Magnum where I have a 2000, 5.9 with just headers, coupled with a Edelbrocks 750 & RPM intake up top and a chrome box ignition. The rest is a 727 & 3.55’s on 245/60/15’s.

The stock gears were 3.23’s in the 9-1/4 rear end. When the pinion seal let loose on the Hwy destroying the pinion and everything else, I went a step up to 3.55’s. A minor improvement but I liked it. Later on, I added a mild 2500 stall converter and installed a new trans, both from TCI.

Just this small adjustment to a relatively mild engine changed its performance a lot in a positive & aggressive manor. The additional stall helps on the take off and the firm shifts of the transmission is a strong and quick shift that the stock trans was missing. Now it’s chirping the tires at the gear change if not a little little bit of tire spin.

I like it in the heavy late model B body, it’s gotta be really cool in a lighter A body.

Once Dan has his ride and upgrades his engine, a transmission package coupled with gears and sticky tires will sew it up well for him.