Fuel gauge wiring question
Any questions, just ask. I bypassed the ammeter wiring by using a small bolt, and nut and heavy duty shrink wrap, and attaching both ammeter leads together, and using shrink tubing to cover them up.
Then using the ammeter face, and needle, I used the guts from a Sun 2" volt gage and converted it to volts. I think the gage PN# is 5680 or something like that. I clipped the volt gage plastic needle short, and super glued the old ammeter pointer on the volt gage stub. You have to carefully rework the gage face to fit the sun gage. And grind a spot of clearance in the cluster for the pendulum under the volt gage to be able to swing. I also wired in a 12V LED for low voltage since I will run a denso alternator and it has this feature.
The schematic for the IVR is off the shelf electronic parts. I wired mine with red as 12V in, yellow as 5.5V out, and black as ground. These I tapped right off the studs on the fuel gage. Note the thicker red and black wires. These are feed wires to the volt gage.
With the ammeter to volt gage conversion, I have since removed the black volt gage ground jumper wire.
How I made this gage work is I used a rubber grommet, and plastic insulators/spacers on the red + side, and oversized the + side hole its stud comes out of from the cluster housing so the red positive side doesnt short and ground out. On the negative side, I removed the white paint inside the cluster where its stud comes through, and used a metal spacer so the volt gage negative side stud grounds to the cluster housing.
Fuel gage, mark a lay line on the back to line the gage face back up when done. I used a small pair of wire cutters to carefully uncrimp and remove the fuel gage face, then when inside, you can see what looks like points. This is the IVR. You want to remove it and not disturb the side of the gage that makes the pointer work. Leave all 3 mounting studs intact. You will jump off 2 of them with your homemade IVR , plus 1 is the signal from the gas tank. When done, you can carefully recrimp the gage face back on using the same wire cutter plyers.
I used dimmable 5630 led light strip and lined the bucket. I soldered these to a bulb socket. Remember to bench test this. LEDs are polarity sensitive. If they dont light, turn the socket 180° and reinstall it.
Hope this helps you get the devil out of the rallye dash.
Any questions, just ask. I bypassed the ammeter wiring by using a small bolt, and nut and heavy duty shrink wrap, and attaching both ammeter leads together, and using shrink tubing to cover them up.
Then using the ammeter face, and needle, I used the guts from a Sun 2" volt gage and converted it to volts. I think the gage PN# is 5680 or something like that. I clipped the volt gage plastic needle short, and super glued the old ammeter pointer on the volt gage stub. You have to carefully rework the gage face to fit the sun gage. And grind a spot of clearance in the cluster for the pendulum under the volt gage to be able to swing. I also wired in a 12V LED for low voltage since I will run a denso alternator and it has this feature.
The schematic for the IVR is off the shelf electronic parts. I wired mine with red as 12V in, yellow as 5.5V out, and black as ground. These I tapped right off the studs on the fuel gage. Note the thicker red and black wires. These are feed wires to the volt gage.
With the ammeter to volt gage conversion, I have since removed the black volt gage ground jumper wire.
How I made this gage work is I used a rubber grommet, and plastic insulators/spacers on the red + side, and oversized the + side hole its stud comes out of from the cluster housing so the red positive side doesnt short and ground out. On the negative side, I removed the white paint inside the cluster where its stud comes through, and used a metal spacer so the volt gage negative side stud grounds to the cluster housing.
Fuel gage, mark a lay line on the back to line the gage face back up when done. I used a small pair of wire cutters to carefully uncrimp and remove the fuel gage face, then when inside, you can see what looks like points. This is the IVR. You want to remove it and not disturb the side of the gage that makes the pointer work. Leave all 3 mounting studs intact. You will jump off 2 of them with your homemade IVR , plus 1 is the signal from the gas tank. When done, you can carefully recrimp the gage face back on using the same wire cutter plyers.
I used dimmable 5630 led light strip and lined the bucket. I soldered these to a bulb socket. Remember to bench test this. LEDs are polarity sensitive. If they dont light, turn the socket 180° and reinstall it.
Hope this helps you get the devil out of the rallye dash.