1966 Plymouth Valiant /6 & Holley 1945 carb can only get to idle at 1250rpm. How to get a lower idle without dying?

jacraest said
Guy never responded.

Another issue - the oil pan is rubbing on the center link. The back section of the oil pan looks the same between it and the earlier A body oil pans. Am I able to modify and dent it in? The pan's getting welded atm. The motor mounts look fine, not compacted - then again I have no frame of reference for how thick they should be though they are OEM. Bushings are all completely shot. I've read that shimming could help - but wouldn't replacing the bushings just make things worse (like the linkage sitting up higher?) What do you guys think?

EDIT: so as far as I can see, my options are (after replacing shot bushings and tie rod end boots)
1. shim motor mounts
2. shim steering linkage idler arms

It's your car. Rig it up however you want to, but it's the wrong pan and that's the whole issue. I've been through this a long time ago and the sumps are not the same, front or back. I have three early A pans including the one on Vixen, the one on her original engine sitting on the floor and the one for the new engine I have going together. Trust me. They're different. There is ONE other pan that CAN work, and does work in everything else with no modifications (except trucks) but, you guessed it, requires a "little" massaging rot eht early A, but those pans are just as hard to find. WHY any company will not make one is beyond me, because they would sell. ALL they'd need to make is TWO pans. Make one to fit all the car chassis and one for the trucks and that's it, but they won't do it.