I rebuilt my first engine last year and wanted it to be the least costly possible. I just wanted a reliable street rumbler engine. I went with a 318 magnum (same things apply to a 360 magnum except engine balancing which impacts flexplate/torque converter and harmonic balancer) I had my block and heads machined and went .030 over. Here's the rest of what I did and found success in spunky little engine that feels like A LOT more power over the slant 6 it replaced in my 67 Dart : You can send the original cam out to Oregon Cam Grinding and have a new profile ground for under $300 including shipping back and forth. They have many hydraulic roller profiles available. I did the #1280 on a 110 lobe sep (212/[email protected] .485/.506). While in there get some stock replacement lifters (or don't worry about it and just put the old ones back in the same holes for good measure). Replace the head gaskets with the .028 set from Mr. Gasket for a tick more compression. This will give you experience in measuring and ordering new longer pushrods since the cam base circle is reduced by grinding and the heads are slightly closer to the deck. I splurged on a set of nice Trend pushrods. Get a Hughes 1199 valve spring kit and install some new valve stem seals while you're in there. I dressed mine out in LA engine front dress and a 360 car oil pan, taking cues from Magnumswap.com. I used an Edelbrock 7577 intake and a 1405 carb. I sourced a complete stock and electronic ignition with curved distributor on FABO from @halifaxhops. I bought some 2nd hand hedman headers. Without any machining you can do all of this for less than $2700.00 and that's if you buy it all new. I bought my carb, intake, headers, timing cover, pulleys here on FABO and saved some money. You will be surprised how costs of the little parts and gaskets add up quickly. I think you would be totally shocked at the power increase and the rewarding feeling of doing these simple " hot rodding" upgrades.
