Do I really need the wire from the alternator to the bulkhead connector?

Cashtastic said

I am no pro in auto or electrical; and I too, am going on my own journey with wiring.
That being said, make sure you have a safety in place from your new alt wire. A worst case scenario sort of thing; fuse/breaker/fuseable link. The latter may or may not have been with your original harness.
Ive done something similar on a valiant as what youve described youre going for, and the only real obstacle immidiately I noticed was making sure clean/new power goes to the goodies that used to be spliced off of the ammeter wire [wether you used it, kept it, changed it etc].
I believe I'm understanding your question and yes, isolating that wire the way you're thinking from your 'new power setup' and send a live 12v into the old 10awg/"P" connection on the bulkhead would work the way you're thinking.
Better? A matter of opinion.
I ended up doing the same as I worked through cleaning things up and inspecting on my dart; that I had already unhooked the factory ammeter in.
Just my 2cents

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Thanks for the reply. I included an image of the same relay box I'll be using. The new alternator wire will be the big wire into the relay box on the right, so power will go through the big PAL2 fuse, then to the battery from the large connection on the left. There will also be a connection from the battery to the factory starter relay. That's how the Rams and Daks were wired, but obviously no ammeter on those. I know if you want the ammeter to work then all the car's power needs to run through it. I gave up on that idea years ago when I ran a shunt from the alternator to the battery, and I just run a separate volt meter.

With the new relay box I would still have to get power to inside the car, so that's why I was thinking to run a wire from the left terminal below to the bulkhead terminal that is normally the alternator charge wire. Thanks for confirming (to the best of your understanding) that it will work. Now... do I need to run a wire from the bulkhead terminal that normally has the fusible link and goes to the starter relay? If I don't care about the ammeter function then I don't see why it's required.