Verify first.....

If I told you I did 29 alignments on my car to get it straight, what would you think?
I was an alignment tech, and had free use of the shop afterhours and weekends.
>If you weigh 360, or 260, or 160; I'll give you the same answer; ballast it. and if you are a streeter, set the caster the same on each side. If your wife likes her ham, leave her at home, or drive nice.
>Not only that, but have your guy check the bump steer, and set the ride height in the center of the curve where it is the least offensive, and leave the ride height there forever, or fix the daymn problem.
> Not only that, but if your thrust-angle is not zero, try and get it there. Why? Because if you don't, the steering box will not be centered and you may find it boosting all the time; and if not, your P/S oil may boil out. While we're on that topic,
>set your sector-shaft end play on-center, a hair loose! Don't set it to zero. else again, you'll be chasing the car all over the road.
>Not only that, but try to get your Scrub-radius to zero. If you don't, the tires will try to climb up out of every tire track and rut on the road, and when both sides are climbing, your car ends up wandering. Even a half inch of scrub, is liable to drive you nuts cuz it doesn't show up on the alignment machine....... just like bump-steer doesn't.
>Not only that, but if you are installing New LBJs, first, stick a pin-punch in the cotter-pin hole and spin the stud. If you can't turn your LBJs before you install them, get other ones. If you cannot spin the studs, then your steering will not self-center. But not only that, the car will go in whatever direction it is pointed in. and you will have to constantly steer it back and forth. On the hiway, you will be chasing that car all over the road, with not a moment's rest. A lil to the left, then a lil to the right, with never a perfect straight ahead moment of relaxation
>If you have to Sacrifice something, let it be caster. On the street you'll hardly know the difference.
And for crying out loud; a half a degree of Negative camber is more than enough for a streeter, just be sure both sides are the same with you in it.
>And finally, remember that the alignment is a straight ahead snapshot, and it tells you nothing about turning.
If your car travels thousands of miles more or less straight ahead, then great, set it up for straight ahead.
But if you have a City car, and if those stinking tire tracks between stoplights, drive you nuts, you'll want to find out why and fix it. If you have a V8 car and /6 T-bars, start there, and stiffen up the shocks. All that up and down wheel motion, is constantly changing the camber, which is constantly changing the toe-in, and the bump-steer, which is allowing the tires to steer the car, instead of the steering wheel. No matter how hard you try, the bumpsteer will have just a very small window in which it wants to be, maybe less that two inches. Your job is to try and keep it in the window, by limiting the independent up and down wheel motion in the turns. In the straight ahead steering position it will be less of a nuisance.
If yur cornering hard and the inside wheel falls down, no big deal, the weight is on the outboard side, and the inside wheel doesn't even have to really be there ,lol.
The 29th time was the charmer; last alignment was about in 2002 or so.

Now, if you just drive your car out for prescriptions and beer , well then get your $29.95 alignment and call it good.