JDMopar said

Welcome to FABO @TheCudaKid ! Like most, if not all of the others that have replied, I'll suggest sticking with the small block. I live in Western NC, and I'm gonna make a guess that you live around Raleigh, maybe. There are several good machine shops down that way. Has your 273 been bored, or is it still the stock bore? Clean the top of a piston and see if you can find a piston size. Stock won't have one, and most oversized will have whatever size they are stamped into the top, like .020, .030, .040, etc. Get the machine work done and build it yourself. It's a great learning experience that is a major confidence booster. In 1975, I was your age saving every penny I could scrounge to build a 340 to swap into my 70 Duster that had a 318. I built that 340 myself, with some coaching from my neighbor. Much to my amazement (even now!) it ran, and ran like a scalded dog! You can do the math from my age above, in 1975, but here I am today at 66 years old and still love fooling with my cars. I do my best not to be one of the grumpy old guys, like @Dana67Dart mentioned....lol. Good luck to you, and keep your work updated here. :)

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Dana67Dart said

What they said!

To add to that. A pretty " rebuilt motor" does not mean it is a real rebuilt motor.

If you get a rebuilt get it from a place that will guarantee it.

Stick with the small block. You will be happy in the end.

With some work you can drop in a 318 or a 340 or a 360.

The 67 should have a cast iron wayerpunp that the inlet is on the driver's side.

Later ( 70 something and up) 318 340 360 have aluminum water pumps that are shorter and the inlet is on the pass side.

All the front timing cover and accessory drive components will swap from 67 to the later years.

Some of the SBs (360?) Are externally balanced so torque converters and dampers are engine specific.

Also 67 ( maybe 68 too) crank to converter bushing is unique to that year.

Exhost manifolds are unique to sb vs bb and to A bodies.

67 is a one year only year as many parts are not the same as 68 and up.

Good thing is you can get an IBM card copy from Stallentis historical. It will have a lot of the build info for your car.

You have a notch which are slightly rare but not in the 50k rare range, more like 25k restored.

There is no " numbers matching" in 67

The best you can do is have an engine that's the correct engine for the car and was built in a timely fashion before the car was shipped, same for the transmission.

The vin on the door piller is ONLY referenced on a build sheet or the IBM card.

The sequence number on the fender tag is also referenced on the build sheet, the IBM card AND in 2 locations on the body, drivers trunk lip under the trunk seal and on the radiator core support on the driver's side typically under the radiator yellow sticker.

The vin or reference number is not stamped on the engine or trans ( I thought the seq number was stamped on the trans but I can't find any proof at this point)

The number stamped I to the body should read:

7 = year
# = (another number which is the assembly plant) in my case it is 2 for Hamtramic mi
### = Ship date (in my case it is 208 which is 2/08/67, but it could start with A,B or C October, November, December and 2 digits to represent the day like B01 = 11/01/66. Both would be 67 model year cars)
###### = the seq number from the fender tag.


My advice is to make the car drivable even if it means getting a junk yard SB to put in for now and enjoy the car. Then if you want to go big collect ALL the parts and then do the swap


Welcome aboard and good luck to you.

There are a few old cranky folks on FABO don't let your feelings get hurt.

Lastly give as much info and photos as you can with every question.

And if someone asks a question give them an answer.

Trouble shooting from 1000 miles away is painful but can be done.

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