Camber Bolt Adjustment

72bluNblu said
It’s really up to you. The QA1 UCA’s have additional positive caster built in, so that may change the way you set the adjustment.

Usually I start at the maximum positive caster setting, which means the forward adjuster is set so the control arm is all the way “out” and the rear adjuster is set so the control arm is all the way “in”. Or in other words the front adjuster positions the control arm as far away from the frame as it will go and the rear adjuster pulls it in to the frame as far as it will go. That setting creates the most positive caster you can have regardless of what UCA you’re using.

Depending on the UCA and your ride height you may need to adjust further from there to get your camber where you want it. I run my cars lower than stock, so max positive caster usually results in some negative camber, which is good for radials.

But it really depends on what you want for an alignment. For radials positive caster and slightly negative camber is what you want. How positive you make the caster and how negative you want the camber depends on how aggressive you want your handling to be.

The SKOSH chart is a good guide, although it’s a little conservative with positive caster IMHO, especially for a power steering car. Some of that I think is leftover from the parts available at the time, it was hard to get more than +3* of caster even with offset UCA bushings. Personally I think you can add about +2* caster to these recommendations across the board.

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Reviving this thread!

I also installed the Qa1 torsion bar system in my 1969 Dart and out of 2 shops. No one had been able to align it.

I can’t get anywhere close to -.5 camber.

Today I crawled under and reset the camber bolts to having the front ones to provide max caster and rear ones in.

It did make my camber extra negative like you said but I want to be able to get to -.5 on each side.

And suggestions on what to tell the shops? So far I’ve have this car aligned 3 times and one says my lower control arm is too long and the other says my upper control arm is too short.

I set the camber bolts how you said and then I’m planning on taking it to a shop and having them play with it to get it right. Not sure what the optimal height is on this set up. I am planning to make it a daily driver not track so I don’t want to be eating up the tires .
The shop was able to get -1.5 camber on one side and -2.3 on the passenger. Way off from being close to what QA1 specifies

I am also located in northern CA, any shops you recommend?

Lastly one Bolt for the K-member was loose and when up in the air, it had a gap. I am thinking that has to be the reason they couldn’t align it but even then would it be that way off?

I tighten it and rest the camber bolts and torsion bar bolts