Camber Bolt Adjustment

If those are the bars you're going to use, you'll definitely need to raise the car at least an inch.

The bump stops on those QA1's are poly, and they are not progressive like the factory bump stops. It will be noticeable when they contact the frame.


Most modern cars are north of 200 lb/in wheel rates, and we're not talking performance or sports cars there either.

I ran 1" bars on my Duster for a bit and found them to be pretty soft still. I did not have sway bars on it at the time but the body roll was still significant too, even with just 225/60/15's on it- so not some crazy performance tire allowing for higher corner loads like the 275/35/18's and 295/40/18's that are on it now.

I've been running it pretty much as a daily driver with 1.12" bars and with the Hotchkis Fox shocks on it the ride isn't harsh at all. Fairly comparable to modern performance cars really.

I wouldn't bother with anything smaller than PST 1.03's, even for a cruiser.
what are you using in the rear? I would think you'd want to keep your front and rear ride frequencies within 10% of each other. assuming 3400lb with driver and a 55/45 weight bias for my /6, no PS/PB/AC car, I get about 1.31/1.46hz front and rear if I get the 130 lb/in rate 6 leaf 340/360 spec springs. are you running circle track springs then with the big t-bars? was temped by the price of the speedway 175 lb/in springs, but figured that would be way too stiff and unbalanced with my .92" bars https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Chrysler-Type-Multi-Leaf-Spring-175-Lb-Rate,3526.html