Stroker's 68 Barracuda
This is the "water block" as I'm calling it for the 225. First time using SendCutSend's anodize feature. I'm happy with the result.
Since I'm running a header, and there's a good possibility I'll be driving in temps below 50° F sometimes, I heard that I might freeze up the carb if I don't get some heat under it where the factory manifold bolted. Not sure how I feel about it wither way, but it gave me a chance to make something.
This is the part from the CAD drawing on my previous post. It'll seal to the bottom of the Super 6 manifold with either silicone, a gasket of my making, or the factory steel gasket. Haven't decided yet. Haven't checked the flatness of my manifold, or of this part.
The theory is that it'll circulate coolant in the heater loop to keep that Carter BBD nice and warm on this cold days. Three mounting holes are 5/16" - 18 and those bigguns are 3/4"-16 for -8ORB fittings.
Still have to make a plate for the nose of the manifold where all that other fancy stuff used to happed. It'll probably be blue too, and made out of aluminum.
Put together an 8 3/4 rear for a friend of mine with a General Lee clone. I'll post some pics of that next weekend when I install it. For some reason his VIN is for an actual 69 Charger RT, but someone put an open, 2.76 gear, 8 1/4 in it. And I'm dying to pull some numbers off the block because for a 440 it feels a little underpowered.
Anyway....
Here's that shot I talked about of degreeing the cam. The installed centerline is 104 and point to point ended up being dead on using the .050" method for the opening and closing events. Glad I didn't have to pull that crabk sprocket off...again.
The server didn't like my cylinder head pics, so I'll move on from those and jist post installed pics after the new dowel pins arrive.
Mocked up the passenger mini-tub in chassis to shift everything around until I was happy. On this side it looked like the previous attempter used a shark jaw to cut out the inner wheelhouse. Just like on the driver side they also cut out that nice flange from the inner house, so I hade to fixed the rear inner metal and then make a flange to weld to it. Right here the flange is on clecoed in. I decided in this side to just rock that shitty floor piece over the frame rail. It's really not that bad.
Probably not going to dress any of these welds. Feels like leaving them in the raw on this side kinda goes with the rattness of the rest of the car. Should have this welded in, in a day
or so.
Next up I'm tackling the hack job on the package tray and side wings of it and the rear seat brace. For some reason someone cut those out too.
This is the "water block" as I'm calling it for the 225. First time using SendCutSend's anodize feature. I'm happy with the result.
Since I'm running a header, and there's a good possibility I'll be driving in temps below 50° F sometimes, I heard that I might freeze up the carb if I don't get some heat under it where the factory manifold bolted. Not sure how I feel about it wither way, but it gave me a chance to make something.
This is the part from the CAD drawing on my previous post. It'll seal to the bottom of the Super 6 manifold with either silicone, a gasket of my making, or the factory steel gasket. Haven't decided yet. Haven't checked the flatness of my manifold, or of this part.
The theory is that it'll circulate coolant in the heater loop to keep that Carter BBD nice and warm on this cold days. Three mounting holes are 5/16" - 18 and those bigguns are 3/4"-16 for -8ORB fittings.
Still have to make a plate for the nose of the manifold where all that other fancy stuff used to happed. It'll probably be blue too, and made out of aluminum.
Put together an 8 3/4 rear for a friend of mine with a General Lee clone. I'll post some pics of that next weekend when I install it. For some reason his VIN is for an actual 69 Charger RT, but someone put an open, 2.76 gear, 8 1/4 in it. And I'm dying to pull some numbers off the block because for a 440 it feels a little underpowered.
Anyway....
Here's that shot I talked about of degreeing the cam. The installed centerline is 104 and point to point ended up being dead on using the .050" method for the opening and closing events. Glad I didn't have to pull that crabk sprocket off...again.
The server didn't like my cylinder head pics, so I'll move on from those and jist post installed pics after the new dowel pins arrive.
Mocked up the passenger mini-tub in chassis to shift everything around until I was happy. On this side it looked like the previous attempter used a shark jaw to cut out the inner wheelhouse. Just like on the driver side they also cut out that nice flange from the inner house, so I hade to fixed the rear inner metal and then make a flange to weld to it. Right here the flange is on clecoed in. I decided in this side to just rock that shitty floor piece over the frame rail. It's really not that bad.
Probably not going to dress any of these welds. Feels like leaving them in the raw on this side kinda goes with the rattness of the rest of the car. Should have this welded in, in a day
or so.
Next up I'm tackling the hack job on the package tray and side wings of it and the rear seat brace. For some reason someone cut those out too.