1974 Dart 318 crank, but no start (Solved)
s break it down.
If its newer production (vs. old stock original circa 1974) then only ballast resistor is used. It looks like you chose to mount the resistor on the wiper motor. I'd suggest mounting it where the factory did. It looks like a points type ballast and bracket - approximately 0.6 ohms. Those were mounted under the lip on the firewall, just above the inner fender. Pretty well protected there.
With key in run, the power feed is from the ignition run wire only. If there is a reading on the coil/ignition-start side of the ballast resistor then there is continuity.
HOWEVER, this depends on how the test light was connected!
Regardless of how the test light is connected, it will dim when the starter is turning because it draws so much power the battery voltage drops.
Get yourself a cheap multimeter if you dont already have one.
During Start, the ignition is powered from the Ignition start feed. Coil + should be close to battery voltage (9.5- 11.5 V while cranking) because current for the coil goes direct (bypasses the resistor) and the ECU connection will be a little less because it has to flow through the resistor.
1. Make sure the battery is charged or the V during cranking may be to low to power the ECU.
2. Make sure the ECU is wired correctly - which I suspect may be the issue. Don't go by colors alone. Go by position of the wires on the ECU connector.
Power for the ECU connects to the top position of the ECU connector.
Coil negative connects to the left of that.
Distributor pickup wires on the right. Those are + and - but if prewired with connector should be OK.
Which makes it darn difficult to answer but I can at least point you in the right direction. I see you're ahead of some of the responses. Let
s break it down.
If it worked before then it should work now.
If its newer production (vs. old stock original circa 1974) then only ballast resistor is used. It looks like you chose to mount the resistor on the wiper motor. I'd suggest mounting it where the factory did. It looks like a points type ballast and bracket - approximately 0.6 ohms. Those were mounted under the lip on the firewall, just above the inner fender. Pretty well protected there.
Half correct if you are reading with a meter, or a very very low current test lamp.
With key in run, the power feed is from the ignition run wire only. If there is a reading on the coil/ignition-start side of the ballast resistor then there is continuity.
see above
Same votlage on both sides of the coil means there is (a) connection to power (b) no current flowing therefore no connection to ground. That means the ECU isn't closing the 'points'.
HOWEVER, this depends on how the test light was connected!
Regardless of how the test light is connected, it will dim when the starter is turning because it draws so much power the battery voltage drops.
Get yourself a cheap multimeter if you dont already have one.
That actually is correct. The ECU when powered normally closes the solid state euqivalent to points. Current flows through the ballast from ignition run feed to the coil and then to ground. Each device the current flows through reduces the voltage of the electrons.
During Start, the ignition is powered from the Ignition start feed. Coil + should be close to battery voltage (9.5- 11.5 V while cranking) because current for the coil goes direct (bypasses the resistor) and the ECU connection will be a little less because it has to flow through the resistor.
1. Make sure the battery is charged or the V during cranking may be to low to power the ECU.
2. Make sure the ECU is wired correctly - which I suspect may be the issue. Don't go by colors alone. Go by position of the wires on the ECU connector.
Power for the ECU connects to the top position of the ECU connector.
Coil negative connects to the left of that.
Distributor pickup wires on the right. Those are + and - but if prewired with connector should be OK.