Gets hot and stalls out

itsfishy said
I've got the timing and IR gun ordered, working on the SS fuel lines, spacer and heat shield now. I'm a very data-driven individual; I'm not fond of a shotgun approach and hoping I got whatever I was going after (to a point: there is some merit to "accuracy by volume", but that's usually more towards full-auto weapons than much else - but I digress). So, I want to get this stuff in, do "before" tests, discuss data, make changes, retest, rinse and repeat as necessary.

You'll probably get better at collecting and documenting data as time goes on. That's just the way the it is.
There's a couple ways to get the timing info if you're working alone. Of course begin by plugging the vac advance vacuum source (golf tee).
The first data point is fairly easy. Once its idling steady, shoot the TDC mark, adjust the dial back until it lines up with TDC and note the dial back reading and rpm.

Now for a second reading... One method is to turn in the 'idle speed screw'. Before doing that make a drawing of how the slot is clocked. The 'idle speed screw' is throttle position at slow idle and changing it will change the fuel mix at idle and off idle. And off course the goal here is to make baseline measurements and when done for all the adjustments to be the same as at the start of taking measurements. Hence the drawing.

Now you can turn in the idle position screw until the rpm is at some convenient number. Say its 800 rpm, then go to 1000 rpm, etc Whether its every 100, 200, or 250 is up to you. Or you can change the dial back for one or 2 additional degrees and increase the rpm untill the marks line up,. Then note the rpm. Whatever works for you.

Then plot it on a spreadsheet or graph paper as shown here. Need some help with my timing curve..

If timing advances immediately from your idle speed, then try to slow the engine down long enough to get a timing reading at a lower rpm. It will be easier to do this once the engine is warm.