Lean idle. Rich cruise.

Get your timing sorted first. Then block the middle e bleed hole. The other two holes should be no bigger than .028 and .026 would be best.

Then LOWER the idle feed restrictors down in the metering block. It’s a simple drill and tap modification.

You don’t want a jet (the idle feed restricters) above fuel level. Why they almost always stick them up high I can’t say. It’s just stupid but they keep doing it.

You’re idle feed restriction should only be .026-.028 and the idle air bleed should start in the .068-.072 range to start.

Your .028 main air bleed isn’t bad but .026 would most likely be better.

Then you’ll need T slot restricters. They ALL need them. For a single 750 I start at .072ish and tune them from there.

Once you do all that, block the power valve and leave the primary main jets alone. Go drive the car. On flat level ground you want the SMALLEST main jet at a cruise you can get without getting a lean surge. That is cruising on the main jet, not on the T slot so depending on gearing and tire size you’ll want to be cruising at 3000 rpm or so. Any lower than that and you might still be getting fuel from the T slot and you don’t want that.

Once you have your cruise A/F ratio correct you don’t touch the primary main jets again unless you are changing your cruise A/F ratio.

Put your power valve back in and you can tune for WOT. If you are lean you add fuel to the primary side by increasing the size of the power valve channel restrictors and the secondary main jet.

It’s a bit of work but the end result is worth the effort.