67 GTS 4-Speed: Daily Summer Driver

This past weekend I went home and finally got some wheel time on the car. DAMN, does it drive nice! it is about time that I can actually drive it and not worry about over heating or engine issues.

The alternator had some bad diodes in it so I got them replaced and now the car is charging, but maybe a little to much? like the Ammeter stays on the charging side but never really goes to straight up and down. It really could be that the battery doesnt have time to fully charge since I really only been going on 3 mile stints at a time.

The clutch is smooth in operation but definitely stiffer than any car I driven before, so my shifts are not smooth at all. I hope to improve on that.

The car probably needs to be tuned, but right now I am enjoying the fact that I can actually drive it. But it didnt keep me from screwing with the carb. I believe it is a 71 440 standard avs carb, meaning it has the smaller primary bores. Well I wanted to see if I blip the throttle if the rods would move. Well on the first shot the rods would rise with the shot coming from the accelerator pump and the engine would bog down. But I would blip the throttle repeatedly after that and the rods would not move and the engine would rev normal after that. I used what I believe is 8 inhg springs from an Edelbrock spring kit and the issue still persisted but at least the rods would move a bit on throttle blipping. What would cause the rods to go wide open on the initial throttle blip, but not on the subsequent blips? Would that be a vacuum leak somewhere? or an internal issue with the carb? because the carb was rebuilt not to many years ago and did not have this issue when it was on a 70 Polara with a 440.

I did find the issue with the turn signals. It was the flasher. In my collection of 4 flashers, only one worked. I also noticed that my hazard flasher switch isnt working. So I will have to remove that and see the issue with that.

I did try to align the front end but ran into the issue of running out of adjustment. I can get the camber in the -.5 to -.75 deg territory, but I was not able to get the caster in the positives on any side (I am using the Skosh Chart for the alignment guidelines). I am thinking that may be because I am using the adjustable QA1 strut rods and may have not set my length properly on them. What is the appropriate effective length on A body strut rods?