I Need Engine Experts! 340 Roller Lifter and Pushrod Issue

RustyRatRod said

Just asking here, but why didn't you use a solid roller from the get go? More power all the way around plus the shorter lifter. Please don't tell me it's the frequent valve adjustment thing, as that's just a myth. With all the high end valve train parts you're using here, if you have to adjust once a year, I'd be shocked.

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Glad to entertain the question - here is my take on it:

It is absolutely NOT a "frequent valve adjustment" issue. Done (and tightened properly), they last for years with minimal work required. I have a high lift solid lifter car I haven't had to touch for 5 years so far. In this case with the 340 we've been talking about, there is an adjustment nut anyway, so it could come loose for a hydraulic lifter as easily as it could for a solid lifter.

From my understanding of cams, I am not sure I agree with your statement of "more power all the way around". A hydraulic lifter actually has an advantage off the seat, and you also don't lose the lift from the required lash setting. Finally, although it is not that hard to address, lash gets a bit more variable with aluminum heads since they grow more with temperature.

I am NOT saying a hydraulic cam is better than a solid lifter cam. Solid lifter cams absolutely have their advantages, especially in high RPM applications.

In this case this car used to be owned by me but is now owned by a super nice young guy who is in to hot rods and old Mopars. He street drives the car and is still learning much about engines and these old cars. In this application I felt a hydraulic cam was the better choice.