Gen3 hemi tkx swap
Several years ago I put an American Powertrain hydraulic throw out bearing in my '68 Coronet. While not a Tremec with an aftermarket bell, one would think it's the same idea. Target travel/air gap on that part was .150". .200" is too much and .100" is not enough.
The bearing is really not supposed to retract. The operation is similar to how disc brakes work. The bearing rests on the clutch fingers like a caliper piston would on a spinning rotor. You want it to have instant action and if it has to travel real far then it will be delayed and will take more pedal travel to fully disengage the clutch.
BTW, I used the factory clutch pedal and clutch rod to give the right pedal ratio - it was the right move. I cut one end of the clutch rod off and drilled/tapped it to accept the threaded rod that actuates the master cylinder. The OE rod end is actually angled already so there was a slight offset to the right. I had to clearance the inner opening of the firewall plate a bit to keep the rod from contacting it at full travel but that was it. It's more important to have the correct amount of travel.
I drove it thousands of miles like that without issue. Hyd. throwout was one of the best things I did to the car, worked beautifully.
Shouldn't be a lot. Isn't there a spec in the instructions?
Several years ago I put an American Powertrain hydraulic throw out bearing in my '68 Coronet. While not a Tremec with an aftermarket bell, one would think it's the same idea. Target travel/air gap on that part was .150". .200" is too much and .100" is not enough.
The bearing is really not supposed to retract. The operation is similar to how disc brakes work. The bearing rests on the clutch fingers like a caliper piston would on a spinning rotor. You want it to have instant action and if it has to travel real far then it will be delayed and will take more pedal travel to fully disengage the clutch.
BTW, I used the factory clutch pedal and clutch rod to give the right pedal ratio - it was the right move. I cut one end of the clutch rod off and drilled/tapped it to accept the threaded rod that actuates the master cylinder. The OE rod end is actually angled already so there was a slight offset to the right. I had to clearance the inner opening of the firewall plate a bit to keep the rod from contacting it at full travel but that was it. It's more important to have the correct amount of travel.
I drove it thousands of miles like that without issue. Hyd. throwout was one of the best things I did to the car, worked beautifully.