Thinking of switching from M1 single plane to LD340 but LD340 would need to be milled to fit. Is it worth it?
I appreciate the input, guys.
I decided to get a good night's sleep and look at it again this morning as well as provide some more info. I set the M1 back on it to compare and that was also a challenge to get the bolts started again on both sides. Turns out it was user error. (surprise, surprise!) I think the thin layer of gasket maker was just enough to make it too difficult. My bad. PS, I had not used the end gaskets either. I cleaned the gaskets off completely and did a dry fit. I also discovered that the center 4 ARP bolts had been cut just enough to allow clearance in the M1 intake runners but they had NOT been re-chamfered to a taper. Duh...
Once I gave them a taper, I was able to get them all started and ran in so then I swapped on the LD340 again and was able to get the bolts threaded in that intake as well. You can tell that I don't do this stuff often enough so have a laugh on me for that one.
I ordered a new set of gaskets and will again ditch the end pieces. I had already removed the location pins before as well. (the M1 does have location holes in it though but the LD340 does not)
So now the question is really just which intake to go with, as they both actually fit. I'll plan to also get some Permatex copper spray to hold the gaskets in place this time.
More info on my setup and use:
'67 Notch with full interior, sound deadener, etc. It's not a lightweight car and has US Cartools frame ties. I haven't weighed the car yet.
340/416, 727 reverse manual valve body with 4400 stall converter and currently has 3.73 gears but my plan is to go to 3.91 or 4.10 with the addition of a Gear Vendors overdrive which is on order. I also have a set of 4.56 gears for real fun. Rear tires are 295/55/15
Molnar crank with Autotec dished pistons and 4.080 bore.
Solid roller rockers with the geometry correction kit from B3 Racing
I've attached the cam sheet and engine specs for reference.
Engine Dyno showed peak horsepower of 516 @ 6100 rpm and peak torque of 537.6 @ 4600 rpm.
Mainly street driven but I do want to get it to the track eventually, for fun.
The M1 seemed to work just fine but since I have both options, I figured now is the time to consider a swap, or not.
I think I've covered everyone's questions.
Thanks again!
I appreciate the input, guys.
I decided to get a good night's sleep and look at it again this morning as well as provide some more info. I set the M1 back on it to compare and that was also a challenge to get the bolts started again on both sides. Turns out it was user error. (surprise, surprise!) I think the thin layer of gasket maker was just enough to make it too difficult. My bad. PS, I had not used the end gaskets either. I cleaned the gaskets off completely and did a dry fit. I also discovered that the center 4 ARP bolts had been cut just enough to allow clearance in the M1 intake runners but they had NOT been re-chamfered to a taper. Duh...
Once I gave them a taper, I was able to get them all started and ran in so then I swapped on the LD340 again and was able to get the bolts threaded in that intake as well. You can tell that I don't do this stuff often enough so have a laugh on me for that one.
I ordered a new set of gaskets and will again ditch the end pieces. I had already removed the location pins before as well. (the M1 does have location holes in it though but the LD340 does not)
So now the question is really just which intake to go with, as they both actually fit. I'll plan to also get some Permatex copper spray to hold the gaskets in place this time.
More info on my setup and use:
'67 Notch with full interior, sound deadener, etc. It's not a lightweight car and has US Cartools frame ties. I haven't weighed the car yet.
340/416, 727 reverse manual valve body with 4400 stall converter and currently has 3.73 gears but my plan is to go to 3.91 or 4.10 with the addition of a Gear Vendors overdrive which is on order. I also have a set of 4.56 gears for real fun. Rear tires are 295/55/15
Molnar crank with Autotec dished pistons and 4.080 bore.
Solid roller rockers with the geometry correction kit from B3 Racing
I've attached the cam sheet and engine specs for reference.
Engine Dyno showed peak horsepower of 516 @ 6100 rpm and peak torque of 537.6 @ 4600 rpm.
Mainly street driven but I do want to get it to the track eventually, for fun.
The M1 seemed to work just fine but since I have both options, I figured now is the time to consider a swap, or not.
I think I've covered everyone's questions.
Thanks again!