Doug's headers not fitting - frustration
I install many different headers from the same manufacture and also different brands. They are all a little different even the same brand and Part#. The only set I ever installed without any modifications were Hooker long style 1 5/8 tube with manual steering. All others need to have something changed for fitment. Also I never use rubber mounts with headers. One reason to have a perfect balanced rotating assembly.
Install the engine on the K-member with the mounts snug but movable on the bolts on the block. Tighten them after the surface of the mount is parallel with the surface of the k-member. This uneven fitment can be seen easier with a steel mount where rubber mount will just twist and flex into place when tightened. So when ever using rubber mounts let the engine down slow and make sure the engine mount surfaces are parallel with the K-member when the engine is level with the K-member to frame surfaces compared to the carb surface. Then tighten the mount to block bolts.
Dropping them in on the k-member and assuming they are properly place is everyone's biggest mistake.
Reminds me of the guys that did my vinyl on my house. They leveled the bottom row and worked their way to the top. What a cluster **** that was. I didn't think of telling them until they got to the top that the house wasn't level. 1 1/2 '' difference from side to side at the top in 66 feet. They should have seen it at the bottom of the first window they came to. I would have measured from the top down at the corners and struck a line..
Good luck with your headers Steve. If your using just rubber mounts use manifolds for clearance with engine movement.
I install many different headers from the same manufacture and also different brands. They are all a little different even the same brand and Part#. The only set I ever installed without any modifications were Hooker long style 1 5/8 tube with manual steering. All others need to have something changed for fitment. Also I never use rubber mounts with headers. One reason to have a perfect balanced rotating assembly.
Install the engine on the K-member with the mounts snug but movable on the bolts on the block. Tighten them after the surface of the mount is parallel with the surface of the k-member. This uneven fitment can be seen easier with a steel mount where rubber mount will just twist and flex into place when tightened. So when ever using rubber mounts let the engine down slow and make sure the engine mount surfaces are parallel with the K-member when the engine is level with the K-member to frame surfaces compared to the carb surface. Then tighten the mount to block bolts.
Dropping them in on the k-member and assuming they are properly place is everyone's biggest mistake.
Reminds me of the guys that did my vinyl on my house. They leveled the bottom row and worked their way to the top. What a cluster **** that was. I didn't think of telling them until they got to the top that the house wasn't level. 1 1/2 '' difference from side to side at the top in 66 feet. They should have seen it at the bottom of the first window they came to. I would have measured from the top down at the corners and struck a line..
Good luck with your headers Steve. If your using just rubber mounts use manifolds for clearance with engine movement.