1968 Plymouth Valiant First Gen HEMI
With the transmission located we could start on the motor mounts and exhaust. I had 3 sets of factory manifolds (1 pair of 4 bolt flange truck manifolds, 2 pair of 55-56 manifolds) and a set of shorty headers. It eventually came down to a pair of the 55-56 manifolds. These are far from optimum from a performance standpoint, but from first hand experience running these on my 57 Plymouth with another mild 354 they’ll do well enough. I realize I am leaving power on the table with them but am trading that off against the time to fit and build a custom set of headers.
https://flic.kr/p/2pPutX1]
exhaust[/url] by https://www.flickr.com/photos/153889607@N08/]M Patterson[/url], on Flickr
In the process of fitting the exhaust we ended up raising the engine a bit (probably a bit over an inch)
https://flic.kr/p/2pPuu3M]
install 1[/url] by https://www.flickr.com/photos/153889607@N08/]M Patterson[/url], on Flickr
Besides giving the exhaust clearance we needed, it also allows enough clearance to run the aluminum valve covers I want to use. I’d already decided I was going to use an aftermarket AC/Heat combination evaporator under the dash (this works well as there is currently no heater in the green car and the fire wall hole for the blower motor was filled when the car was built). The master cylinder won’t be an issue as I have the brackets to raise it above the valve covers. There is adequate clearance to get the distributor in and out under the wiper motor. I may actually be able to run the steering shaft on a straight shot to the steering gear, but if not, it won’t be too difficult to build a 2 piece shaft with U joints to get the steering hooked up.
Next was to tack the frame mounts together, of course that was when the welder started to act up so the welds aren’t real pretty but as we’re going to remove the K member anyway I’ll be able to do some grinding and final welding before it goes into the green car.
After we got the mounts tacked in we decided to take a break from the car and start getting the 354 on the engine stand ready to install in the Green car.
The engine had a very minor oil leak from the valley cover and of course the manifold had to come off to access the bolts.
At some point I am still want to try aftermarket EFI on the car (after I get a few thousand miles on the motor). I’ve been leaning towards the Holley Sniper, and reading some of the forums on them it appears that there is an issue getting a good idle out of them with if you’re using a dual plane manifold with a full-length divider. The cure appears to be milling the divider down. Now was a good time to do this so it went over to the machine shop to have about 3/8” removed.
https://flic.kr/p/2pQX8Hq]
divider[/url] by https://www.flickr.com/photos/153889607@N08/]M Patterson[/url], on Flickr
When the manifold came back from the machine shop I decided to set it on the mock-up engine and see where I was going to be as far as hood clearance went. The Hot Heads intake is tall and even before we raised the engine I suspected we’d need a hood scoop of some kind. With the engine raised it will be mandatory …….and would require a taller scoop than I would like to use.
https://flic.kr/p/2pSgNis]
zz HR[/url] by https://www.flickr.com/photos/153889607@N08/]M Patterson[/url], on Flickr
I decided to rethink the intake in favor of something shorter, as I had a factory single 4 BBl intake laying around, I tried that one. It’s better (a bit over an inch lower), and push come to shove I can use that one with a couple of minor modifications.
https://flic.kr/p/2pSgbbG]
zz Factotry[/url] by https://www.flickr.com/photos/153889607@N08/]M Patterson[/url], on Flickr
The lowest intakes I’m aware of are the 57-58 392 dual Quad units. That with a dropped base air cleaner may even let me use the stock hood without a scoop. I started putting the word out that I’m hunting for one of those or a Weiand 7263 which appears to be basically an aluminum copy of the factory intake.
https://flic.kr/p/21UKGgS]
Cad afb s[/url] by https://www.flickr.com/photos/153889607@N08/]M Patterson[/url], on Flickr
Next we got the engine off the stand to change out the rear sump pan for the center sump 392 pan. The pans aren’t reproduced so I had to find a good used one. The fortunately it wasn’t too hard to find a decent one.
https://flic.kr/p/2pSgbfu]
zz Pans[/url] by https://www.flickr.com/photos/153889607@N08/]M Patterson[/url], on Flickr
Unfortunately the pickup is no longer available new, and even decent used ones are hard to find. The profile of the 392 pan is similar to the 64 and up small block pans. I’m also using one of Hot Heads High Volume oil pumps (a modified 340 oil pump with a spacer). The SB pickups are readily available new I decided to see if that could be made to work.
https://flic.kr/p/2pQZBDW]
pickup[/url] by https://www.flickr.com/photos/153889607@N08/]M Patterson[/url], on Flickr
Turns out it actually fits pretty well.
https://flic.kr/p/2pSgbyA]
zz PU 3[/url] by https://www.flickr.com/photos/153889607@N08/]M Patterson[/url], on Flickr
.
With the transmission located we could start on the motor mounts and exhaust. I had 3 sets of factory manifolds (1 pair of 4 bolt flange truck manifolds, 2 pair of 55-56 manifolds) and a set of shorty headers. It eventually came down to a pair of the 55-56 manifolds. These are far from optimum from a performance standpoint, but from first hand experience running these on my 57 Plymouth with another mild 354 they’ll do well enough. I realize I am leaving power on the table with them but am trading that off against the time to fit and build a custom set of headers.
https://flic.kr/p/2pPutX1]
In the process of fitting the exhaust we ended up raising the engine a bit (probably a bit over an inch)
https://flic.kr/p/2pPuu3M]
Besides giving the exhaust clearance we needed, it also allows enough clearance to run the aluminum valve covers I want to use. I’d already decided I was going to use an aftermarket AC/Heat combination evaporator under the dash (this works well as there is currently no heater in the green car and the fire wall hole for the blower motor was filled when the car was built). The master cylinder won’t be an issue as I have the brackets to raise it above the valve covers. There is adequate clearance to get the distributor in and out under the wiper motor. I may actually be able to run the steering shaft on a straight shot to the steering gear, but if not, it won’t be too difficult to build a 2 piece shaft with U joints to get the steering hooked up.
Next was to tack the frame mounts together, of course that was when the welder started to act up so the welds aren’t real pretty but as we’re going to remove the K member anyway I’ll be able to do some grinding and final welding before it goes into the green car.
After we got the mounts tacked in we decided to take a break from the car and start getting the 354 on the engine stand ready to install in the Green car.
The engine had a very minor oil leak from the valley cover and of course the manifold had to come off to access the bolts.
At some point I am still want to try aftermarket EFI on the car (after I get a few thousand miles on the motor). I’ve been leaning towards the Holley Sniper, and reading some of the forums on them it appears that there is an issue getting a good idle out of them with if you’re using a dual plane manifold with a full-length divider. The cure appears to be milling the divider down. Now was a good time to do this so it went over to the machine shop to have about 3/8” removed.
https://flic.kr/p/2pQX8Hq]
When the manifold came back from the machine shop I decided to set it on the mock-up engine and see where I was going to be as far as hood clearance went. The Hot Heads intake is tall and even before we raised the engine I suspected we’d need a hood scoop of some kind. With the engine raised it will be mandatory …….and would require a taller scoop than I would like to use.
https://flic.kr/p/2pSgNis]
I decided to rethink the intake in favor of something shorter, as I had a factory single 4 BBl intake laying around, I tried that one. It’s better (a bit over an inch lower), and push come to shove I can use that one with a couple of minor modifications.
https://flic.kr/p/2pSgbbG]
The lowest intakes I’m aware of are the 57-58 392 dual Quad units. That with a dropped base air cleaner may even let me use the stock hood without a scoop. I started putting the word out that I’m hunting for one of those or a Weiand 7263 which appears to be basically an aluminum copy of the factory intake.
https://flic.kr/p/21UKGgS]
Next we got the engine off the stand to change out the rear sump pan for the center sump 392 pan. The pans aren’t reproduced so I had to find a good used one. The fortunately it wasn’t too hard to find a decent one.
https://flic.kr/p/2pSgbfu]
Unfortunately the pickup is no longer available new, and even decent used ones are hard to find. The profile of the 392 pan is similar to the 64 and up small block pans. I’m also using one of Hot Heads High Volume oil pumps (a modified 340 oil pump with a spacer). The SB pickups are readily available new I decided to see if that could be made to work.
https://flic.kr/p/2pQZBDW]
Turns out it actually fits pretty well.
https://flic.kr/p/2pSgbyA]
.