Glamour Shots.. '62 Valiant Wagon
5/21/24:
Since The last update I have been getting the brakes sorted, I thought I had a bleeding issue, but it turns out when I rebuilt the master cylinder I may have left the residual pressure valves out of the master cylinder ports that connect to the dual hardlines. I could not get a pedal on this thing at all, but I could after a few pumps of the pedal.
After thinking about the problem I bought a 2# and 10# Wilwood Inline RPV. I installed the 10# in the brake line to the rear Axle. Much Better! Now I just need to add the 2# RPV to the front line sometime soon and that should solve my soft pedal issue.
I will now know to replace those little RPV's in the master cylinder if I ever rebuild one completely again!
The front self-alignment feels really good and I have a little off-center in the steering wheel to correct with the tie rod end sleeves, but it's not much. I feel that it is pretty good for a dude with some wrenches, a bubble gauge, and some tape measures.
On the alignment, I was not able to get the proper amount of negative camber on the left side -Originally I was going to pull the upper control arm off and install the offset bushings, but then I hit the easy button and tossed some washers under the lower ball joint mount, and it seems to have worked well.
It was 86° here yesterday and the car does not run hot even sitting still in traffic. I have yet to take it on the highway, ( it used to run hot on the highway before the engine rebuild) I want to get the brakes fully sorted before I do that.
I have yet to fill it with antifreeze, as I have been running water and flushing it out to clean more junk out of the block.
Oil Pressure is good even at hot idle. I need to change the oil soon. It has about half of the 500 break-in miles on it, and I have yet to attempt any acceleration trials - The car has no Tachometer in it and I probably will not install one yet. So car without installing an O2 Sensor the small 4 bbl feels good, but I predict there is a large lean area off idle with light load - Maybe some Power valve or primary jetting futzing to solve that?
Last nite after the 4th grade band rehearsal, I had a helper working with me to install the flat 4 trailer wiring and a Signal Stat Flarestat Model № 127.
The Flarestat unit did not work at first. - The other one of these that I installed on my '64 Dart was fuss-free.. This one needed the switch contacts massaged inside as they did not contact - Easy fix! and easy to service with 2 small flathead screws to remove. At the end of the night, we had working trailer lights and working 4-way flashers. Now just need to reinstall the heater core and box, (maybe check that valve lash again before I do that) and fill it with antifreeze as well as get the front RPV installed and then this car is ready for a road trip!
The Flarestat is installed and working.- YAY! I wish this one had the white lettering on the pullout Globe/Knob, but it works for now!
Helping hands make little work. These little hands are perfect for getting wires run in factory loom holders without removing the rear bumper - My pork chop hands cannot fit in there!
5/21/24:
Since The last update I have been getting the brakes sorted, I thought I had a bleeding issue, but it turns out when I rebuilt the master cylinder I may have left the residual pressure valves out of the master cylinder ports that connect to the dual hardlines. I could not get a pedal on this thing at all, but I could after a few pumps of the pedal.
After thinking about the problem I bought a 2# and 10# Wilwood Inline RPV. I installed the 10# in the brake line to the rear Axle. Much Better! Now I just need to add the 2# RPV to the front line sometime soon and that should solve my soft pedal issue.
I will now know to replace those little RPV's in the master cylinder if I ever rebuild one completely again!
The front self-alignment feels really good and I have a little off-center in the steering wheel to correct with the tie rod end sleeves, but it's not much. I feel that it is pretty good for a dude with some wrenches, a bubble gauge, and some tape measures.
On the alignment, I was not able to get the proper amount of negative camber on the left side -Originally I was going to pull the upper control arm off and install the offset bushings, but then I hit the easy button and tossed some washers under the lower ball joint mount, and it seems to have worked well.
It was 86° here yesterday and the car does not run hot even sitting still in traffic. I have yet to take it on the highway, ( it used to run hot on the highway before the engine rebuild) I want to get the brakes fully sorted before I do that.
I have yet to fill it with antifreeze, as I have been running water and flushing it out to clean more junk out of the block.
Oil Pressure is good even at hot idle. I need to change the oil soon. It has about half of the 500 break-in miles on it, and I have yet to attempt any acceleration trials - The car has no Tachometer in it and I probably will not install one yet. So car without installing an O2 Sensor the small 4 bbl feels good, but I predict there is a large lean area off idle with light load - Maybe some Power valve or primary jetting futzing to solve that?
Last nite after the 4th grade band rehearsal, I had a helper working with me to install the flat 4 trailer wiring and a Signal Stat Flarestat Model № 127.
The Flarestat unit did not work at first. - The other one of these that I installed on my '64 Dart was fuss-free.. This one needed the switch contacts massaged inside as they did not contact - Easy fix! and easy to service with 2 small flathead screws to remove. At the end of the night, we had working trailer lights and working 4-way flashers. Now just need to reinstall the heater core and box, (maybe check that valve lash again before I do that) and fill it with antifreeze as well as get the front RPV installed and then this car is ready for a road trip!
The Flarestat is installed and working.- YAY! I wish this one had the white lettering on the pullout Globe/Knob, but it works for now!
Helping hands make little work. These little hands are perfect for getting wires run in factory loom holders without removing the rear bumper - My pork chop hands cannot fit in there!