Searching for 12v switched power after ditching ballast and installing aftermarket electronic ignition
One of those resistors is 0.5 ohms. One is 5 Ohms.
The Ignition start wire (tradtionally J3 and brown) connects to the 0.5 ohm resistor. The branch going to the coil will no longer be used for the coil -so that's an easy place to connect any low current circuit that must be on with the key in run and start positions. Of course the J2 & J3 still need some sort of connection whether its a 1/2 ohm resistor or a jumper or whaterver. if its not engine related, then connect to the switched accessory circuits. There may even be extra fuse cavities available in the fuse box.
The engine harness:
On a 1976 A-body the engine harness is where all of the connections are made to the main circuits.
Study that drawing until you see the connections.
Take your finger and trace the power path to from the alterntor to the battery. Then the alternator to the headlight switch. Then alternator to the key switch.
This is very different than the standard A-body wiring from '66 to '74.
Also notice there's a fusible link on each of the main feeds. The junctions are splices - probably welded.
here's a photo from the WWW that I marked up.
I would add any new electrical items that will be used with the engine running to the alternator output. This keeps the maximum load through the fusible links to the factory maximum.
One of those resistors is 0.5 ohms. One is 5 Ohms.
The Ignition start wire (tradtionally J3 and brown) connects to the 0.5 ohm resistor. The branch going to the coil will no longer be used for the coil -so that's an easy place to connect any low current circuit that must be on with the key in run and start positions. Of course the J2 & J3 still need some sort of connection whether its a 1/2 ohm resistor or a jumper or whaterver. if its not engine related, then connect to the switched accessory circuits. There may even be extra fuse cavities available in the fuse box.
The engine harness:
On a 1976 A-body the engine harness is where all of the connections are made to the main circuits.
Study that drawing until you see the connections.
Take your finger and trace the power path to from the alterntor to the battery. Then the alternator to the headlight switch. Then alternator to the key switch.
This is very different than the standard A-body wiring from '66 to '74.
Also notice there's a fusible link on each of the main feeds. The junctions are splices - probably welded.
here's a photo from the WWW that I marked up.
I would add any new electrical items that will be used with the engine running to the alternator output. This keeps the maximum load through the fusible links to the factory maximum.