he bypass circuit SHOULD NOT feed from the start circuit. That is because, when in "park" or "neutral" on on a stick car, when depressing the clutch, (grounding the start relay) the coil cicuit of the "start" relay is being backfed/ powered by the coil end of the ballast resistor. This not only puts a load on the ballast and reduces coil power, but in some cases with a "sensitive" start relay, this backfeed MIGHT actually engage the starter!!
That is exactly why in my previous post I spoke of ways to imitate the bypass circuit--with another relay, with the newer Jeep starter relay, or with a series diode off the "start" line.
You can actually make a table of the ignition switch yourself easily. Do not get too hung on colors as they may have changed. There is only so much that can possibly come and go from the switch.
1...Turn the switch to ACC. Probe the switch wires and determine what is continuous. A will be feed from the battery and B will be source for accessories.
Even if this is a "mystery" switch, it's easy
2...Next you have to differentiate between A and B. Which is the batt and which is the ACC, you have two colors now identified, but which is which.
Take A, and probe all of the others while holding the switch to "start." If no result, then A is "accessory." Double check by connecting "B" to the meter and re probe. There will be one or two that connect with B. So, B whatever color, is the batt feed, the other two are the start and the bypass.
3...Set switch to "run." If correct, B will now be again continuous with "A" "accessory" and also continous with the "run" wire.
4.... Last, which one of the two you ID'd in the "start" test are actually "start" and "bypass?" The fact is it does not matter. Both are ONLY continuous in "start" and they feed from separate, isolated contacts.
Any smaller wires coming from the connector are such things as horn (small black) column mount shift quadrant, "key in" lighting or "key in" activated switch, etc.