K-frame alignment?

DC 340 said

In the interest of getting that bar back in, you could make some shim(s) to move that K down, hopefully seat the bar home, remove the shim(s) afterwards, and tighten back as it should be. At least you could then get it off jack stands and see what you've got.

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If it comes to that I think I could just give it a few whacks with a hammer and drift to get it in. I haven't done that mostly because I don't want to have to disassemble the suspension to R&R the torsion bars if I ever have the need. It would be bad too if that caused it to break under load, but I don't think it would be any different than putting it in with the k-frame shimmed and then un-shimming it.

I took the day off from the car, but likely tomorrow I am going to release *everything* connecting the k-frame/motor/transmission to the body, hang the motor from the cherry picker, and unbolt the k-frame to see if I can get anywhere like that. (Right now only the column and z-bar with the outer pivot unbolted are still in place)

If that doesn't help, I'm going to pull the transmission from under the car and lift the engine/bellhousing off the k-frame and try again. It will be easier to move without all that weight on it but I hope it doesn't come to that. One of the reasons I pulled the k-frame to begin with was to avoid trying to fit the engine/trans in bolted together without any help, or fighting the 4-speed in while laying on my back. It would be easier if I could just pick the engine weight up off the k-frame with the cherry picker *and* unbolt the k-frame to move it around but the only idea I've got is to use floor jack under it. That won't work because I'd never get the jack placed where the k-frame is balanced to sit on it.

That's my plan. I don't promise I will stick to it.