Shocks: looking for Blistein quality at KYB price.

Like I said, I’ve run “basic **** box” Monroe’s and I’ve run KYB’s. I’d run Monroe’s every time given the choice between the two, based on their actual performance on the cars I’ve run them on. Money spent on KYB’s is wasted money.
Interesting point of view.

When I last used KYBs commonly, it was the 1980s-'90s and they were the "new thing."
I replaced "normal" (often Sears-Roebuck), worn shocks with KYBs on at least a Chevelle and a Cutlass, possibly on a '68 Delta, and maybe a '70 Monte. I also rode in at least three vans (GM and Dodge) that had swapped in KYBs just after they were purchased new, and the KYBs seemed better than what was there before in all cases.
But, what am I comparing them to, right...?

That being said, I have gained a bit of polish and discernment with the passing of years, and I no longer drive by alternately pressing the pedals to the floor, and at the time, I probably wouldn't have noticed much other than "Feels Tighter."


If you’re going to run radial tires, running the original size torsion bars is a mistake. The traction you’ll get from even the typical all season white letter radials is substantially better than from the factory bias ply’s, and better traction means more force being transmitted into the suspension. Which takes more wheel rate to manage.
Okay. I would be interested in people's personal experiences with this.
I'm the first to agree that the '64 Dart, like every 1964 car that isn't a Porsche or a Ferrari, is sprung very softly.
But while I do want to tighten up the car's suspension just a bit (and I do understand that this is not a modern car – I have an E36 and an E46 BMW and have had 911s), I am not looking to turn this into a race car, or make it do improbable things, or drive it like I stole it (the slant-six makes it a poor getaway car, and no, I'm not going to turbocharge it).
I just want to be able to drive around the twisty roads where I live without feeling like I'm hurling it, and take a drive on the NYS Thruway without my knuckles getting white and without being rear-ended.

And I am trying, strange as that may sound on a board full of hot-rodders, to keep it as original as possible.

As I say, if I want to zip around, I can drive my 330, and I know I will never get a '64 Dart to compete with that.
And if I want to modify the Bejeeeezus out of something, I can start restoring the SS I've had since 1980, which was a drag car before I bought it.

I'm just trying to make what is now a very old car, in very original condition, as pleasant to drive as possible with the minimum number of changes from stock.
I'm happy to spend money for significant improvements (which Bilsteins have been in every car I have installed them in), but I'm not looking to "tweak" it endlessly to maximize every aspect of performance.
And I really don't want to go changing torsion bars. And then adding a leaf to the rear springs. And then adding disc brakes. And then...

Hell, it's still got a bench seat and no cupholders or A/C, so how comfortable will I ever really make it, right?

So, to be clear, if any of the tiny group that's reading this thinks that the Bilsteins will suck, or otherwise not be worth the $350 price differential on a Dart with an otherwise stock suspension, please let me know. I had planned to use them, couldn't find them, bought KYBs instead as a "next-best" option, and now, thanks to this thread and to Beams, I know I can get Bilsteins as I had originally intended.
So, if my original idea of using Bilsteins seems dumb to you, please tell me, and I'l save my money. If they'll be good, but (as always) "could be better if only I ...," that's okay, I'm looking for "good," and may do "better" somewhere down the line.

Also, and this may clarify things a bit, I want to make sure that my wife is comfortable driving it. She doesn't have a problem driving older cars (as a kid she drove Javelin, for chrissakes), but I don't want her to feel that the car is hard to drive, or requires too many "weird" considerations (I'm a "When it does that, kick it here, and never use the cigarette lighter while making a left turn" kind of guy, but I find that never seems to go over well with the ladies).


Radials also need different alignment specs, so don’t run the factory specs, use the SKOSH chart.
I know well that alignment specs are different for radials (and should generally be tweaked even for bias tires).
I was not aware of the SKOSH Chart, though, so thank you for that.
(Yes, Google IS my friend).

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Thanks for all of your excellent advice, and the time you've spent typing it!

– Eric