273 advise needed

First I know there have been several 273 rebuild discussions here and I've learned a lot already reading through toolmanmike's build and others. Most of what I've found are builds of a 273 two barrel, or have a lot of technical information that I don't really understand. I already have the commando engine, and since I'm paying labor having all the parts I need when the car goes to my mechanic is very helpful. Here is the backdrop:

1965 Barracuda, 273 commando, original engine, the car has been sitting for possibly up to 32 years. Last known registration was 1992 in Texas. Wish to keep the car as original as possible while refreshing the motor, maybe adding 25-30 Hp while doing it wouldn't be a bad thing! Compression on 1&3 was around 60 psi, so I stopped there. Mechanic says this isn't a sure sign it's needing rebuilt, since over time the oil will be pushed out of the cylinders and until those are filled again compression will be low. Freeze plugs are shot, the ones I can see along the bottom of the block are all gone except for one. So while the engine is out for freeze plugs what are the must do things, optional things, and stick with what you have things?
It sounds like pulling the engine for a refresh is exactly what is needed. Until it's apart you won't know for sure how far you need to go with it. It's probably original with a standard bore. It probably has a ridge at the top of the cylinder and some taper so a overbore is needed. .030 over is a standard and oversized pistons shouldn't be too hard to find. Get the high compression domed pistons with 2 valve reliefs to keep it "Commando" Your machine shop should boil the block and install new cam bearings and core plugs. They should also check the deck for straightness and machine if necessary, clean and measure the crankshaft. It might only need a polish or possibly need ground. Usually .010/.010 cleans things up nicely. Those are forged cranks and are very tough and long lasting. Most shops check the crank bores for proper alignment but rarely do they need line bored. The stock connecting rods are plenty strong with full floating pins They can be resized if needed and it's recommended if new bolts are installed. Hone the lifter bores to make them happy. You want the new lifters to turn easily in the bores. If they don't turn, you can ruin a camshaft in a real hurry. Let's see, did I forget anything guys?
Already having the commando 4 barrel I don't know if getting the Egge lifters and a new cam are really necessary. I have experience with Hughes engine and have never had a problem with anything I've gotten from them.
I used a Isky E4 cam and lifters. It is close to factory specs and still is a solid lifter cam like the original. The 273 is a small cube engine. Watch how big of a cam you install. Too big can get you in trouble
Exhaust manifolds believed to be original, but the 2465847 might be a plus. A guy on fleabay is selling one at $175 calling it a rare high performance part... ??
That manifold number is correct and original for your car.
Is the egge engine kit overkill for what I need. I see several options wanting the buyer to choose the oversize, and I'm not sure how to answer that if I bought this kit.
Again, until the engine is taken apart and wear is noted and measured, you won't know what you need. I didn't use the Egge "kit" but I can see it would be handy because of all it includes.
So if it was your car, and you were pulling the engine to replace freeze plugs, what would you do for sure. What would be good ideas while the motor is out, but not a must. And what would you just clean up and put back together?
Remove, disassemble, check and measure and have a plan of attack. Your machinist will guide you.
Assuming this engine is able to be rebuilt, I will likely base my rebuild on the advice I get here, because I know this site has the most knowledgable members when it comes to these early A body cars with these engines.

Thanks!
Let's dissect your original post.