208Dart
Well-Known Member
That post is ALMOST 10 years old, that's awesome lol thank you very much! I will give that a try!
MIke @ HCA
'70 Dart 392 Project; what direction?
- Thread starter 208Dart
- Start date
-
That post is ALMOST 10 years old, that's awesome lol thank you very much! I will give that a try!
MIke @ HCA
208Dart
Well-Known Member
Got a bracket ordered from Jegs. Should allow me to copy SRT8Cudas linkage.
Modified my pedal again today. The cable was kinking a bit with a poor mockup so will secure it better and improve the routing when the bracket shows up. I can’t stand a sticky pedal motion so hoping this gets it right.
Modified my pedal again today. The cable was kinking a bit with a poor mockup so will secure it better and improve the routing when the bracket shows up. I can’t stand a sticky pedal motion so hoping this gets it right.
JBrian
Well-Known Member
That's exactly what I use
208Dart
Well-Known Member
Here's a question for you all.... Does the throttle body blade have to be 100% flat to maximize airflow? I'm sure the megasquirt has a calibration for 0-100% throttle no matter where the valve ends up at. I'm pretty sure with a slight adjustment I can get the throttle body valve to slightly below parallel. Thinking of all the twists and turns that air has to make to actually reach the combustion chamber, I'm wondering if it's even worth making sure it opens up completely flat. All the airflow throttle body testing I've seen show that they're not really a bottle neck for power/flow...
I can get about 1.8" of travel with my stock pedal, and throttle body opens up with about 2.1" of cable travel...
Bracket won't be here till thursday and I"m gone thursday-sunday so won't be able to work on the car until next week. In the mean time I ordered a Cold Case 755K radiator/fan combination from jegs and a bulkhead fitting with 10AN and 6AN fittings to run my AC hoses through to the Cold master AC unit under the dash.
Mike
I can get about 1.8" of travel with my stock pedal, and throttle body opens up with about 2.1" of cable travel...
Bracket won't be here till thursday and I"m gone thursday-sunday so won't be able to work on the car until next week. In the mean time I ordered a Cold Case 755K radiator/fan combination from jegs and a bulkhead fitting with 10AN and 6AN fittings to run my AC hoses through to the Cold master AC unit under the dash.
Mike
JBrian
Well-Known Member
You can calibrate 0-100% anyway you want, so it doesn't have to be open 100% to call it 100%. That's kind of where I am, it's pretty close so I bought a 92mm throttle body to compensate.
208Dart
Well-Known Member
That's what I'm thinking as well! I've also got a 92mm TB... My diesel moves way more air than this engine ever will and the intake elbow and grid heater is way more restrictive than this 92mm throttle body will be at 90% open.
Mike
208Dart
Well-Known Member
Minor progress happening.
Got the coldmaster HEAT/AC evaporator in, still gotta route coolant lines and connect a switch 12V source but it is minor progress.
It fits pretty easily under the glove box, will have about 1” of the bottom of the evap unit exposed when fully mounted.
Got my Cold Case radiator “in” but the fan of course contacts the front pulley on the engine. And by contact I mean like .005” contact. Going to send an email to the company and see what they recommend. Can’t mount fan on the opposite side due to the condenser being mounted there. Just need to TIG the brackets to the radiator mount but everything should clear just fine there.
Really looking forward to getting past the radiator and heat/cool system so I can move on towards megasquirt wiring and exhaust fab.
Got the coldmaster HEAT/AC evaporator in, still gotta route coolant lines and connect a switch 12V source but it is minor progress.
It fits pretty easily under the glove box, will have about 1” of the bottom of the evap unit exposed when fully mounted.
Got my Cold Case radiator “in” but the fan of course contacts the front pulley on the engine. And by contact I mean like .005” contact. Going to send an email to the company and see what they recommend. Can’t mount fan on the opposite side due to the condenser being mounted there. Just need to TIG the brackets to the radiator mount but everything should clear just fine there.
Really looking forward to getting past the radiator and heat/cool system so I can move on towards megasquirt wiring and exhaust fab.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Ouch. That Holley FEAD does move everything forward, didn’t think it would be that big of an issue though. Might have to look at a dual fan setup.
Glad to see you still making progress either way.
208Dart
Well-Known Member
Yeah I was slightly disappointed for sure but such is my luck.
I haven’t heard from cold case yet but if anything I’ve got a good 10” fan picked out that I think I could run duals with. At this point I would probably draw up my own shroud in a 3D modeling solftware and make it. Would hope to get some money back from cold case first though.
208Dart
Well-Known Member
Zero help from cold case other than the response of "that's our smallest fan" and "you can't return the shroud/fan due to removing the protective cover". I asked twice for dimensions of their shroud mounting brackets and got no response. Oh well...
I just ordered a Spal fan off amazon with some extended mounting brackets. Spal Fan PN: 30102049. It's a 16" puller that's supposedly only 2.05" wide and moves 2025CFM. Little less than what Cold case fan advertises but the reviews are really solid and hopefully I can get it to work with the current shroud.
Parts will be here end of the week, probably won't get to it until next week though.
Mike @ HCA
I just ordered a Spal fan off amazon with some extended mounting brackets. Spal Fan PN: 30102049. It's a 16" puller that's supposedly only 2.05" wide and moves 2025CFM. Little less than what Cold case fan advertises but the reviews are really solid and hopefully I can get it to work with the current shroud.
Parts will be here end of the week, probably won't get to it until next week though.
Mike @ HCA
208Dart
Well-Known Member
Working on more projects this week. About got my heater hoses routed, waiting on a few more fittings to arrive. About done with my Cold Master AC underdash kit as well. Waiting for a few more fittings as well and then I just need to connect two wires.
Got my Radiator/condensor/fans mounted up. Ended up having to dremel and JB Weld the fan motor housing to clear the front pulley. Looks kind of shitty but it was my only option. The Spal fan I ordered while advertised at only 2" tall was actually 4"+ tall when measured with the motor not just the fan housing.
Going to modify my throttle pedal a bit more to increase the travel on the throttle body.
I've got a new brewers reverse light switch for the A833 I'm trying to sort out what wires to run to the starter solenoid, and what wire to tie into the painless wiring reverse light switch... Sent an email to brewers we'll see what they say.
Current projects are to start laying out the megasquirt harness and work on fixing up my fuel filler tube. One thing at a time!
MIke @ HCA
Got my Radiator/condensor/fans mounted up. Ended up having to dremel and JB Weld the fan motor housing to clear the front pulley. Looks kind of shitty but it was my only option. The Spal fan I ordered while advertised at only 2" tall was actually 4"+ tall when measured with the motor not just the fan housing.
Going to modify my throttle pedal a bit more to increase the travel on the throttle body.
I've got a new brewers reverse light switch for the A833 I'm trying to sort out what wires to run to the starter solenoid, and what wire to tie into the painless wiring reverse light switch... Sent an email to brewers we'll see what they say.
Current projects are to start laying out the megasquirt harness and work on fixing up my fuel filler tube. One thing at a time!
MIke @ HCA
I was just looking at your clearance.. I wouldn't have thought twice about cutting that protrusion off the water pump shaft, sticking out of the pulley.
208Dart
Well-Known Member
Well that would've been the smarter decision! haha Live and learn...
So I'm going through my megasquirt stuff and holley "gen 3 hemi connector kit" and holy crap the holley kit is garbage. They have 21 connectors in the kit with not a single applicable label. I emailed holley and they said they don't have a part number reference for what each connector is for. In comparing some of my basic sensors; cam, crank, injectors, coil packs... not a single connector fits. So far looking like a waste of money.
So I'm going through a connector list and will be buying individual connectors I'm guessing.
Here's a list so far of sensors that I have and their connectors that I'll need:
EV6 injector connectors X8
crank sensor (factory hemi 3 pin connector)
cam sensor (factory hemi 3 pin connector)
Coolant Temp sensor (factory 2 pin connector)
Ignition Coil Connectors X8
Bosch Knock sensor connector X2
LS Idle Air control Connector X1
LS TPS Sensor connector X1
bought these sensors for a GM LS cable throttle body: JEGS 14531: Idle Air Control Motor and Throttle Position Sensor for GM LS - JEGS
O2 sensors (came with connectors)
What I don't have is an IAT sensor yet as I don't have an air intake setup yet. Recommendations?
I swear the research/prep work on this stuff is the hardest part!
Mike
208Dart
Well-Known Member
Few hours of research and I think I have sensors/connectors lined out. Ordered from 3 different places (DIY Autotune, Summit, Ballenger Motorsports), if everything works out I will post part numbers.
Mike
Mike
DionR
Well-Known Member
Don't know if you have seen this site before, but maybe it will help some?
Mopar Connection Repair Kit
Mopar Connection Repair Kit
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
If you are using a megasquirt, all you need factory connectors for are the cam/crank sensors, and the coils. Everything else is fairly universal/GM style. I cut up a factory harness and made my own reusing whatever I could, but ran new circuits for TPS, IAC, IAT, MAP, and Coolant. I used an analog sensor for MAP because I didn't want to run a vacuum line inside the car for the on board map. Instead, I use that one as a barometer sensor. I also added analog sensors for oil and fuel psi. I'm not using knock sensors.
208Dart
Well-Known Member
That's good to hear cause that's what I came up with. I ordered these connectors from Ballenger as I hope they're going to match up to the coil plugs.
Home » Shop » Connectors / Harnesses » Tyco / AMP » 3 Way Chrysler Ignition Coil, Headlight, & CAM Sensor Plug Connector (Chrysler # 5014007AB)
Cam/Crank sensors I ordered these:
Home » Shop » Connectors / Harnesses » Tyco / AMP » 3 Way Connector Plug Kit With Keyway for Dodge, Chrysler, Ford Coyote, Focus, Barra Ignition Coil
TPS/IAC/IAT/Coolant Temp/injector connectors I ordered from the DIY Autotune website. Should be fairly straight forward on those.
MAP sensor I was planning a vacuum line but I do like the idea of not running a line through the firewall.
I also bought one of the DIY autotune bulkhead connectors. Should make it a little more clean.
Plan is to mount the ECU in the glovebox as my underdash stuff is pretty packed already. Should be an easy shot through the firewall through the bulkhead connector.
Only thing I'm wondering now is identifying signal/power/ground terminals on all the sensors.......
Mike
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
Nice! I didn't know Ballenger had those. I've purchased from them in the past. They have a nice selection of things that would otherwise be hard to find. I think I was able to find the crank and cam pinouts online by searching. If you don't already have them, you will need ignitors for your coils. DIY has them. THey call the quad spark modules. DIY also has a wiring bundle, which makes building the harness super easy.
My ECU is in the glovebox as well. I used the Deutsch bulkhead connector. You can see it on the center of the firewall.
If this is your first time messing with EFI, I can't stress enough how important grounds are. Notice I have grounds on each head. I have a ground connecting the heads and block together. Then the engine block is grounded to the frame rail. The battery also has a cable to the framerail, along with a ground wire running under the dash to the column support bracket. All ECU grounds are connected to that point. If you think you have enough, add more! I obsessed over it and guess what, zero problems with noise or crazy ground loops.
208Dart
Well-Known Member
This is the bulkhead connect I ordered, I haven't counted out how many wires I'll be pushing through to the engine bay but I almost ordered 2 to be safe.
Weather Pack Bulkhead Connector Kit
That's almost exactly where I want to run my bulkhead connector but alas I ended up running my coolant hose bulkhead connectors right there! I'll probably run towards the passengers side.
SOLID advice on the grounds! I've got battery in the truck with negative lead going through trunk pan to the frame rail. Planning on running another ground cable up along passengers side as a ground "lug" for the EFI system. I've currently have two grounds from my block to the frame rail but that's it currently for the engine bay. I also have a ground wire going from battery to underdash column. Haven't mapped out any extras at this point.
I do have the spark modules from DIY as well as the "Grey" and "White" wiring harness bundles. Honestly running wires and connecting terminals I kind of enjoy on projects like this where you have good diagrams to follow. The painless wiring kit was a nightmare sorting through factory wiring diagrams and cross referencing over to the new system....
Next week should be the week I start laying wires out. I'll have fittings to finish HVAC/Heat and start on EFI.
After that I damn near think I'm ready to crank??? Have to build an exhaust yet but I figured open headers wouldn't hurt first time or two
Mike @ HCA
208Dart
Well-Known Member
Well as luck would have it the ignition coil connector I ordered from ballengers is the same as one in the Holley kit. And it doesn’t fit.
So plan B: ordered the Holley 558-311 ignition coil harness and a metripak 10 pin connector to mate to it (part 570-203). The Holley harness has 10 pins… I’m guessing the 8 coil connectors each has a signal wire, and they all share a common ground and power? I’m going to reach out to Holley for the pinout info. Worst case scenario I cut the Holley harness up and rerun the wires as I need them…
So plan B: ordered the Holley 558-311 ignition coil harness and a metripak 10 pin connector to mate to it (part 570-203). The Holley harness has 10 pins… I’m guessing the 8 coil connectors each has a signal wire, and they all share a common ground and power? I’m going to reach out to Holley for the pinout info. Worst case scenario I cut the Holley harness up and rerun the wires as I need them…
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
22 pins won't be enough for the engine. Mine is a 47 pin and I'm using 42 of them. Now, I am overkill on the power for the coils and injectors. I ran an individual power wire for right bank injectors, right bank coils, left bank injectors, left bank coils. You could just use one power feed for all injectors and another for all coils. I separated them for a "failsafe". If for whatever reason I blow a fuse, the engine will run on half of the cylinders and get me somewhere off the road. I also have redundant sensors for oil and water. One set if for the ECU, the other is for my analog gauges. Basically, you can trim down easily from what I have, but 22 pins isn't enough.This is the bulkhead connect I ordered, I haven't counted out how many wires I'll be pushing through to the engine bay but I almost ordered 2 to be safe.
Weather Pack Bulkhead Connector Kit
That's almost exactly where I want to run my bulkhead connector but alas I ended up running my coolant hose bulkhead connectors right there! I'll probably run towards the passengers side.
SOLID advice on the grounds! I've got battery in the truck with negative lead going through trunk pan to the frame rail. Planning on running another ground cable up along passengers side as a ground "lug" for the EFI system. I've currently have two grounds from my block to the frame rail but that's it currently for the engine bay. I also have a ground wire going from battery to underdash column. Haven't mapped out any extras at this point.
I do have the spark modules from DIY as well as the "Grey" and "White" wiring harness bundles. Honestly running wires and connecting terminals I kind of enjoy on projects like this where you have good diagrams to follow. The painless wiring kit was a nightmare sorting through factory wiring diagrams and cross referencing over to the new system....
Next week should be the week I start laying wires out. I'll have fittings to finish HVAC/Heat and start on EFI.
After that I damn near think I'm ready to crank??? Have to build an exhaust yet but I figured open headers wouldn't hurt first time or two
Mike @ HCA
I'd also suggest making a spreadsheet to keep your wiring colors/position in order. This makes pinout into the connector much easier, and you can go back and ring everything out with an ohmmeter when you're done to confirm you didn't make a mistake.
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
The coils only need a power wire and the signal wire. It's like having 8 old school canister coils. You may want to confirm their harness isn't made to be used with their smart coils.
DionR
Well-Known Member
I was going to suggest buying plugs off RockAuto, but they are $17+ each so not sure it is any cheaper.
DionR
Well-Known Member
I just looked at the core 2012 5.7 I picked up this week and the coils are 3 wires. Not real versed on coils and different years but are there some that are 2 wire like you mentions?
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
Does that engine have a harness? My coils have 3 pins on them, but only two wires going to them. I don't know what the extra pin is for. Since I cut down a factory harness, I really never paid any attention to it until now. Rock auto shows the same part number for coils between non-vvt and vvt engines. I always thought the coils were the same because when doing an eagle head swap, I've always read the only parts needed were heads/rockers/pushrods, valve covers and intake. Nothing about coils.
-
