SM Head Modifications on a budget

I kinda hope you leave the clay out of this test. Common sense says if you see a ridge near the valve job in the chamber throw a old valve in the head to protect the valve job and address it. I personally only sink the valve enough to give me room for a 15 degree top cut. Your last two moves if we go far enough will get you to our target. We know the bolt bulge has to be minimized and we know the short side had to be lowered and shaped. But every step we take we are going to lose the do it yourself crowd. Like I think it was Brian said an intake manifold is going to slow the airspeed some. When I first did the set of heads I run now back in 2008 I needed my quickly ported super Victor to calm the head down enough to hit 318 cfm with a 2.08 valve. I have since learned how to slow the airspeed down enough without using the intake as a crutch. And between being able to now set the throat dimension on my seat machine and giving the heads a better competition valve job I’ve picked up 16 more cfm on my next set of heads. Heck the ones on the car now had my old 4 angle valve job that I did with Neway cutters. And I know the throat is under 88%
How should we approach the head bolt bulge? Many months ago when I was greener than I am now, I tubed the head bolt bulges and then ground a couple of them down flush with the common wall. I was looking for the brass and stopped grinding when I hit it. As a green DIY'er I did not find the head bolt bulge intimidating at all.

So my question is this. Should I approach this grind as if the head bolt bulge is already tubed? If so, I'm not as nervous. Just check for brass every now and then. Should we assume a DIY'er is going to install tubes?