SM Head Modifications on a budget
Let me start out by saying knowing we need as much area as possible at the pinch and short side especially hitting the numbers I am right now. Of course everything is tubed and when I started using the Killer Carbide burs I could remove so much material so fast starting with the pinch I would aggressively port til I saw brass in several areas. With my rotator I like to port mostly to my right side so after I did two I would spin my rotator end for end then do my other two. This gave me max room to attack the head bolt bulge using the same process. Every brass length is cut to size then epoxied in with JBWeld. We last year I had a leaker. It made me feel like crap. If he was local no problem he could drop them off and pick them up or I could drop them off two days later. He’s a distance away so he repaired them. So now I usually try not to hit the tube of maybe one spot. I then seal each pushrod tube up top for insurance and seal anything I hit in the runner with Splashzone and seal it. If you look at this picture all I did was straighten the wall and NOT hit the tube. That would be plenty for this target. The head I talked about above flowed 290cfm with the stock speedmaster 2.02 valve.
Let me start out by saying knowing we need as much area as possible at the pinch and short side especially hitting the numbers I am right now. Of course everything is tubed and when I started using the Killer Carbide burs I could remove so much material so fast starting with the pinch I would aggressively port til I saw brass in several areas. With my rotator I like to port mostly to my right side so after I did two I would spin my rotator end for end then do my other two. This gave me max room to attack the head bolt bulge using the same process. Every brass length is cut to size then epoxied in with JBWeld. We last year I had a leaker. It made me feel like crap. If he was local no problem he could drop them off and pick them up or I could drop them off two days later. He’s a distance away so he repaired them. So now I usually try not to hit the tube of maybe one spot. I then seal each pushrod tube up top for insurance and seal anything I hit in the runner with Splashzone and seal it. If you look at this picture all I did was straighten the wall and NOT hit the tube. That would be plenty for this target. The head I talked about above flowed 290cfm with the stock speedmaster 2.02 valve.