Best cam for the street both power & sound

> If you want power at sub-3000 rpm, yur gonna need pressure at those rpms. If you don't have pressure/power at those rpms, then don't drive at those rpms; either get a high-stall, or sit back and wait for the power to arrive.
As for me, with a manual trans, almost all of my street driving is at under 3000 rpm, cuz my engine is directly connected to the rear tires with no slipper device in between. So my engine has to make gobs of power at those sub-3000 rpms.
>For a normally aspirated engine;
Compression is heat, and heat is power. So my engine thrives on pressure.
>For a streeter, 99% or more of it's life, will not be spent at WOT blasting down the track.
> The vast majority of the time it will idling down the road at under 3000 rpm.
> Most streeters with automatics will be running 3.23s or less, and stupid-low stalls.
>Most of the time will be spent in "drive".
> Most streeters are somewhat concerned about fuel economy and the cost of fuel almost never goes down, so in this situation, Cylinder pressure is paramount.
> My advice is for this type of guy, and this type of car.
Willrun is in a different world.

But go ahead,
you guys can live in your own little tiny worlds, with your blinders on, making ignorant and non-applicable remarks.
IMO;
Some of you guys are just too old and can't think right any more. and
IMO
some of you guys have just never driven a normally aspirated clutch car with an engine that went from a V/P of 130, to a VP in the 170s.
If you had, SURELY
you would be singing a different tune.

Maybe you old guys need a reminder, that even a factory 440 TNT, didn't make a V/P anywhere near 170, not even at sealevel;
and I bet not a one of them ever went 93 in the Eighth either.

IDK, maybe you geriatrics just need to get your meds changed.