Cranks but doesn't start using the key. Starts when using a remote starter switch.

See if I can simplify

With engine key in the "run" position, and engine running, ONLY the IGN1 "run" terminal of the key is hot out in the engine bay. Depending on car model, this feeds the VR for the alternator, and the ballast and on to the coil

BUT THAT IGN1 GOES DEAD when you twist the key to start. In "start" the start terminal activates the start relay, and the IGN2 terminal is also hot, feeds (brown) out into the bay and goes direct to the coil+ side of the ballast. So IGN2 feeds full batt voltage to the coil during cranking

WHAT YOU SHOULD READ on a meter:

With engine running and charging, and battery charging at nominal 14V, Coil + should read somewhere between 8-12V and this can vary

With engine stopped and key in "run" POINTS MAY BE CLOSED OR OPEN depending on where rotation stops. If points are open, coil + will measure "same as battery."

Bump engine til points close, now you have current draw through points, coil, ballast, back to the "run" contact at the key. Now, coil + should measure (varies) about 6-10V.

With meter on the coil + and coil secondary wire grounded (to prevent engine start) crank engine by twisting the key and read meter. Now, coil + should read full "same as battery." This means that if the battery is pulling down to 11V when cranking, then coil+ should also read 11V. It probably will not, but it should be close