Shuts off when hot?

Could be a bad capacitor (condenser) in the distributor. I do not use automotive/ OEM style caps in my outboard motors. I use plastic "electronics" plastic film. Sprague "orange drop" are good ones.


Try to "get ready" to test as soon as it quits. Get a WIRE core wire to test with for the coil secondary, and make or buy a spark test gap. As soon as it quits, leave the key in "run" don't disturb it. Get a test light or meter on the coil+ and see if you have "run" voltage there. It will not be full battery voltage, should be (varies) 5-10V or so

Next "rig" your spark test gap, and crank the engine USING THE KEY. Watch the test gap and see if you have spark.

If not, put a test lamp on the coil NEG and bump the engine (such as jumpering the start relay) until you have a light or voltage. This shows the points are opening. Bump till they close. Check voltage both coil NEG and coil POS. Again, with key in "run," coil + should be about 5--10V or so. Coil NEG should be quite low, probably not more than 1V

So far as the cap (condenser) ignore all the www. BS about testing caps. There is only ONE WAY to test a cap and that is with a HIGH VOLTAGE leakage tester, because if it is "weak" and leaky, you want it to break down if it is going to. Over a hundred volts. After leak checking THEN you can check for proper capacitance value.

(I'll have to look that up, don't remember off hand)

You obviously could just replace the cap, but no guarantee that the new one will be better