Low voltage at gauge, no charge?
So the basics of what you want to do is this:
1...Determine if the output/ charge path from the alternator to the battery is OK
2...Determine if the VR is OK and wired and working OK
3...Determine if the alternator is working, wired OK, and operating OK
So to test the alternator, sounds like you successfully checked for power at the blue field (which is quite simply same as switched 12V or "ignition run"
Now what you want to do is take a jumper and remove the green field wire, and ground that alternator field terminal. With the key "in run" that will cause full field current and if the alternator is healty, will cause full charge output.
So double check---ground the field as I just mentioned, and re check battery voltage and re check the output post at the alternator. If the battery is still below 14V with the engine "fast idle," but if the alternator is still way high, you have a break in the charge wire circuit
Do you have stock wiring, do you still have the ammeter? If so that entire circuit is suspect. The bulkhead connector terminals for the black output wire and for the red ammeter wire, the ammeter itself, in rare cases, the welded splice in the ammeter circuit up near the cluster., and the eyelet connectors at the alternator and at the ammeter., and whatever wiring gets the fuse link to the battery.
IF THE accessories, lights, etc, still seem to work OK, then some of that is eliminated. This leaves only the welded splice and bulkhead connector terminals and the alternator black wire and end eyelet.
HAVE YOU smelled anything, smoke, heat, etc? That is a clue
Read this
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
and this diagram from the same page is the simplified ammeter path
In the above diagram, note that as you follow the RED ammeter wire from the battery, fuse link, through the bulkhead connector, ammeter, out on the BLACK ammeter wire and to the WELDED SPLICE, that path must be good for stuff like the accessories and headlights, brake lights, etc to work. But AFTER that welded splice, the black continues on, on out through the bulkhead connector on BLACK, and to the alternator output. That last section is likely the problem.
If you do not have a factory service manual, run over to MyMopar.com and download the closest one you can find. You may have to settle for Plymouth vs Dodge, etc, and also while there, go to the wiring section, and download the aftermarket wiring diagrams. Those are not as detailed or complete, but often easier to follow
OK let's start over. What this sounds like is that you HAVE A BREAK in the output or "charge" wire from the alternator to the battery
So the basics of what you want to do is this:
1...Determine if the output/ charge path from the alternator to the battery is OK
2...Determine if the VR is OK and wired and working OK
3...Determine if the alternator is working, wired OK, and operating OK
So to test the alternator, sounds like you successfully checked for power at the blue field (which is quite simply same as switched 12V or "ignition run"
Now what you want to do is take a jumper and remove the green field wire, and ground that alternator field terminal. With the key "in run" that will cause full field current and if the alternator is healty, will cause full charge output.
So double check---ground the field as I just mentioned, and re check battery voltage and re check the output post at the alternator. If the battery is still below 14V with the engine "fast idle," but if the alternator is still way high, you have a break in the charge wire circuit
Do you have stock wiring, do you still have the ammeter? If so that entire circuit is suspect. The bulkhead connector terminals for the black output wire and for the red ammeter wire, the ammeter itself, in rare cases, the welded splice in the ammeter circuit up near the cluster., and the eyelet connectors at the alternator and at the ammeter., and whatever wiring gets the fuse link to the battery.
IF THE accessories, lights, etc, still seem to work OK, then some of that is eliminated. This leaves only the welded splice and bulkhead connector terminals and the alternator black wire and end eyelet.
HAVE YOU smelled anything, smoke, heat, etc? That is a clue
Read this
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
and this diagram from the same page is the simplified ammeter path
In the above diagram, note that as you follow the RED ammeter wire from the battery, fuse link, through the bulkhead connector, ammeter, out on the BLACK ammeter wire and to the WELDED SPLICE, that path must be good for stuff like the accessories and headlights, brake lights, etc to work. But AFTER that welded splice, the black continues on, on out through the bulkhead connector on BLACK, and to the alternator output. That last section is likely the problem.
If you do not have a factory service manual, run over to MyMopar.com and download the closest one you can find. You may have to settle for Plymouth vs Dodge, etc, and also while there, go to the wiring section, and download the aftermarket wiring diagrams. Those are not as detailed or complete, but often easier to follow