Fuel level sender
The aftermarket sender I bought was completely off, and irremediably so. The entire configuration of the unit was wrong. Compare the two in the photo. The aftermarket unit...
1. the pickup tube length, shape and orientation was completely different...
2. the pivot point for the float arm was much lower down on the pickup tube, with a much shorter arm...
3. the windings on the resistor board were perfectly linear, not proportionally spaced to compensate for the fact that the top half of the tank is impinged by the spare tire well.
As a result, even if you could calibrate the Full and Empty positions to be correct, the reading would be incorrect for every position in-between. As installed, it read incorrectly at both Full and Empty, and every point in-between.
The problem with my old unit was that the end of the brass arm that sweeps across the resistor board broke off. After trying the new one and deciding it was useless, I fixed it by riveting on an extension to the stub.
I don't know if there is a brand of replacement that has the correct configuration. Every one I have seen offered has this same short float arm, and therefore I presume the same incorrect resistor board.
The aftermarket sender I bought was completely off, and irremediably so. The entire configuration of the unit was wrong. Compare the two in the photo. The aftermarket unit...
1. the pickup tube length, shape and orientation was completely different...
2. the pivot point for the float arm was much lower down on the pickup tube, with a much shorter arm...
3. the windings on the resistor board were perfectly linear, not proportionally spaced to compensate for the fact that the top half of the tank is impinged by the spare tire well.
As a result, even if you could calibrate the Full and Empty positions to be correct, the reading would be incorrect for every position in-between. As installed, it read incorrectly at both Full and Empty, and every point in-between.
The problem with my old unit was that the end of the brass arm that sweeps across the resistor board broke off. After trying the new one and deciding it was useless, I fixed it by riveting on an extension to the stub.
I don't know if there is a brand of replacement that has the correct configuration. Every one I have seen offered has this same short float arm, and therefore I presume the same incorrect resistor board.