Bad Pilot Bushing Symptoms?
Final measurements:
Input shaft: .746”
New Bushing OD: .941”
New Bushing ID (not installed): .753”
Old bushing ID (after removal): .780”
Crank Hole @ 1/2” depth: .937” / .938”
Crank Hole @ 7/8” depth: .934” / .936”
Reaming Depth: 1.005”
Crank hole dimensions are at 0 degrees and 90 degrees to measure out of round. Measured at two places to evaluate any taper.
There is a very slight lip in the machining in the crank that is enough to catch with a fingernail. That is the reason the dimensions further in the hole are 2-3 thou smaller. It is visible in the pictures at the bottom of the crank hole about 3/4 of the way in.
The new bushing that is with the clutch kit is not “oilite” bronze - it is magnetic.
I installed and removed this transmission about 5 times in the past 3 years. Each time I added grease on the nose on the input shaft which I believe is a no-no. I called Mcleod and the gentleman I talked too suggested to install dry. The old bushing has rust on it, which could have been from sitting - the car was comparatively sedentary for the past 2 years.
I did not soak the original failed bushing in oil before install. I am guessing the failure is the result of grease and sitting. Not a strong diagnosis but it’s all I have right now.
The old bushing is .780” ID on the spot that was not damaged by puller teeth. Don’t know how fair that is since I had to beat the brakes off of it to get it out.
I’m not thrilled about the lip / taper of the crank hole, but at a couple of thou it’s really at the limit of how accurately I can measure anyways. I can see if I have a 15/16” reamer at work to bring everything closer to the 0.938” spec and clean up the bore.
I am soaking the new bushing in 10W30 oil and hoping to reinstall this week. I don’t have any strong reason not too besides it isn’t “oilite” bronze. If that’s worth waiting for, I can order it cause I really don’t want to do this job again for at least another few years…
Final measurements:
Input shaft: .746”
New Bushing OD: .941”
New Bushing ID (not installed): .753”
Old bushing ID (after removal): .780”
Crank Hole @ 1/2” depth: .937” / .938”
Crank Hole @ 7/8” depth: .934” / .936”
Reaming Depth: 1.005”
Crank hole dimensions are at 0 degrees and 90 degrees to measure out of round. Measured at two places to evaluate any taper.
There is a very slight lip in the machining in the crank that is enough to catch with a fingernail. That is the reason the dimensions further in the hole are 2-3 thou smaller. It is visible in the pictures at the bottom of the crank hole about 3/4 of the way in.
The new bushing that is with the clutch kit is not “oilite” bronze - it is magnetic.
I installed and removed this transmission about 5 times in the past 3 years. Each time I added grease on the nose on the input shaft which I believe is a no-no. I called Mcleod and the gentleman I talked too suggested to install dry. The old bushing has rust on it, which could have been from sitting - the car was comparatively sedentary for the past 2 years.
I did not soak the original failed bushing in oil before install. I am guessing the failure is the result of grease and sitting. Not a strong diagnosis but it’s all I have right now.
The old bushing is .780” ID on the spot that was not damaged by puller teeth. Don’t know how fair that is since I had to beat the brakes off of it to get it out.
I’m not thrilled about the lip / taper of the crank hole, but at a couple of thou it’s really at the limit of how accurately I can measure anyways. I can see if I have a 15/16” reamer at work to bring everything closer to the 0.938” spec and clean up the bore.
I am soaking the new bushing in 10W30 oil and hoping to reinstall this week. I don’t have any strong reason not too besides it isn’t “oilite” bronze. If that’s worth waiting for, I can order it cause I really don’t want to do this job again for at least another few years…