410 LA small block will not rev past 6000
In short, you measure some stuff out, you send in your info back to Mike who then custom machines the spacers that'll go between your rocker arm shaft and the head (either factory style saddle pedestals, or any of the aftermarket flat types that you'd typically find on stuff like W2s, etc.).
The goal of that kit is to re-align/correct the placement of the rocker arm vs valve tip due to any geometry issues that may be present in your current build. I've attached the original article by Jim Miler that details the theory behind this.
Keep in mind that Mike's kit is very specific to what you are running right now, as in: you go to a bigger/different lift cam, now the mid-point of your rocker's tip/roller is geometrically positioned elsewhere, and that may no longer be a best-fit.
Finally, last but not least: this kit may in fact cause you to lose valve lift, which was precisely the case for me (approx 0.010-15" at max lift). Coincidentally the old style MP W2 rocker arms showed the best lift, whereas my W2 1.6 ratio Harland Sharp did not.
Again, all this is heavily theory based. For a guy like myself who really only ever looked at the rocker roller to tip mark pattern, this is a lot more fuzzy and based on faith that the suggested geometry configuration does in fact result in a more stable valvetrain. Short of running the very same setup with and w/o the kit, and measuring the valvetrain harmonics each time you wouldn't be able to quanititavely compare.
EDIT
====
I did a boat-load of blueprinting on this build (hey, numbers "turn my crank" lol). Here are a couple of pics (hopefully they attached OK), which show the results of getting the kit installed and the resulting tip alignment at seat and max-lifts for both the INTAKE and EXHAUST valves. I ultimately ran lash-caps because these regained some of the lost lift.
Take a look here => B3 Racing Engines LLC - Mopar Rocker Arm Geometry Tech
In short, you measure some stuff out, you send in your info back to Mike who then custom machines the spacers that'll go between your rocker arm shaft and the head (either factory style saddle pedestals, or any of the aftermarket flat types that you'd typically find on stuff like W2s, etc.).
The goal of that kit is to re-align/correct the placement of the rocker arm vs valve tip due to any geometry issues that may be present in your current build. I've attached the original article by Jim Miler that details the theory behind this.
Keep in mind that Mike's kit is very specific to what you are running right now, as in: you go to a bigger/different lift cam, now the mid-point of your rocker's tip/roller is geometrically positioned elsewhere, and that may no longer be a best-fit.
Finally, last but not least: this kit may in fact cause you to lose valve lift, which was precisely the case for me (approx 0.010-15" at max lift). Coincidentally the old style MP W2 rocker arms showed the best lift, whereas my W2 1.6 ratio Harland Sharp did not.
Again, all this is heavily theory based. For a guy like myself who really only ever looked at the rocker roller to tip mark pattern, this is a lot more fuzzy and based on faith that the suggested geometry configuration does in fact result in a more stable valvetrain. Short of running the very same setup with and w/o the kit, and measuring the valvetrain harmonics each time you wouldn't be able to quanititavely compare.
EDIT
====
I did a boat-load of blueprinting on this build (hey, numbers "turn my crank" lol). Here are a couple of pics (hopefully they attached OK), which show the results of getting the kit installed and the resulting tip alignment at seat and max-lifts for both the INTAKE and EXHAUST valves. I ultimately ran lash-caps because these regained some of the lost lift.