No power to ignition or dash
If folks go around adding huge alternators, even 'as small as' 60A or so, WITHOUT at least CHECKING and or repairing the stock wiring, you are GOING to have trouble.
First time I experienced ammeter/ bulkhead connector problems was in the early 70's my 70 440-6 RR. Obviously, "no internet." I ended up drilling out the ammeter terminal holes in the connector, and running paralleled no 12 wires (what I had) through the holes
Those bulkhead connector terminals WERE NEVER up to the task of carrying very much current, and were in fact "on the edge" with 40A or sometimes less.
WHAT YOU NEED to do
If you do not have, wander over to MyMopar.com and get yourself a free service manual. Also go to their wiring section and get one of the aftermarket wiring diagrams which are not as detailed but sometimes easier to follow. I reference them and the service manuals both
THEN read this article on the hows and whys of the ammeter circuit failure
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
This simple diagram from there shows the idea of the ammeter circuit
The main points of failure can be at the ammeter itself, the wire end terminals at the ammeter can fail, and the ammeter itself can fail. This is because the ammeter studs have no brazed/ soldered connection to the internal structure, it is simply a pressure sandwich through the shunt, the insulating washers and the sometimes plastic of the cluster housing. This can get warmed up and then loosen and then you have TROUBLE
EVEN IF you feed the alternator to the battery direct, the big BLACK and big RED ammeter wires are still acting as a parallel path to feed the interior of the car. The ammeter terminals must be jumpered together or the ammeter for sure repaired or checked, and the bulkhead terminals MUST be replaced, checked, or repaird.
If folks go around adding huge alternators, even 'as small as' 60A or so, WITHOUT at least CHECKING and or repairing the stock wiring, you are GOING to have trouble.
First time I experienced ammeter/ bulkhead connector problems was in the early 70's my 70 440-6 RR. Obviously, "no internet." I ended up drilling out the ammeter terminal holes in the connector, and running paralleled no 12 wires (what I had) through the holes
Those bulkhead connector terminals WERE NEVER up to the task of carrying very much current, and were in fact "on the edge" with 40A or sometimes less.
WHAT YOU NEED to do
If you do not have, wander over to MyMopar.com and get yourself a free service manual. Also go to their wiring section and get one of the aftermarket wiring diagrams which are not as detailed but sometimes easier to follow. I reference them and the service manuals both
THEN read this article on the hows and whys of the ammeter circuit failure
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
This simple diagram from there shows the idea of the ammeter circuit
The main points of failure can be at the ammeter itself, the wire end terminals at the ammeter can fail, and the ammeter itself can fail. This is because the ammeter studs have no brazed/ soldered connection to the internal structure, it is simply a pressure sandwich through the shunt, the insulating washers and the sometimes plastic of the cluster housing. This can get warmed up and then loosen and then you have TROUBLE
EVEN IF you feed the alternator to the battery direct, the big BLACK and big RED ammeter wires are still acting as a parallel path to feed the interior of the car. The ammeter terminals must be jumpered together or the ammeter for sure repaired or checked, and the bulkhead terminals MUST be replaced, checked, or repaird.