What do you mean by "red ignition wire?"
These cars have a fuse link in the big red ammeter wire carrying battery power from the engine bay into the bulkhead connector and on into the ammeter and for power into the interior.
If someone hacked that with a fuse, and if that is the wire you are looking at, 30 is not enough. It must be at least as big as the rating of the alternator.
If you do not have a service manual or wiring diagram, run over to
MyMopar.com, and download a service manual for free. Also go to the wiring section over there and download the aftermarket wiring diagrams. CAVEAT: These leave out details, but can be easier to follow. I use both the factory ones and the 2 page aftermarket ones.
Cooked potting on these modules does not automatically indicate a problem. The potting deteriorates, nobody knows how old that one is, and underhood heat from the engine can be enough to cause it to drip and run. Also leaving the key "on" when the engine is not running is not good, as the ignition ALWAYS draws current through the coil and module with key left "in run."
Also here is an article about the problems with the charging/ ammeter/ bulkhead connector circuit. I'm not suggesting you jump right into this, but two things:
1....This explains the problem, and alerts you a bit
2....The simplified diagram there is good to show how the primary power works
[URL]http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml[/URL]
Functionally, main power comes from the battery (RED) runs through the fuse link, through the bulkhead / firewall connector, and to and through the ammeter.
Comes off the ammeter on big BLACK to the welded splice which is a few inches from the ammeter under the dash. This splice branches off as shown to feed the fuse panel "hot" buss, feeds headlights only power to the HL switch, feeds power to the ignition switch.
This varies a bit depending on year/ model
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